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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2008 Kingpin Tour... The clutch cable just snapped and have one on order.. Is there any special tricks to changing the cable out??
Im guessing I'll have to pull the seat and tank..
Thanks
 

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Yes, it's easiest if you remove the tank as the cable runs along the inside of the frame rail. Not really any tricks that I can think of, just take your time. It's not too bad to do, just time consuming.
 

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You can avoid taking all of that off by just installing a "Sav-Ur-Ride" clutch cable repair kit.....I can ship one out to you today! It's an option.

I always carry one behind the side cover on my Jackpot.
Here are the install instructions so you know what all is involved.
INSTRUCTIONS LINK
 

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NOEMTZ said:
You can avoid taking all of that off by just installing a "Sav-Ur-Ride" clutch cable repair kit.....I can ship one out to you today! It's an option.

I always carry one behind the side cover on my Jackpot.
Here are the install instructions so you know what all is involved.
INSTRUCTIONS LINK
Sorry to piggy-back this thread, but at least it's on topic.
How long do the Sav ur ride cables last? I had one in my top box that I almost forgot about until my cable snapped the other day. It literally took about three minutes to install. Works fine, but I considered it a temporary fix.
 

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Not sure how long they will last....but been about 8 months to a year now since I installed mine on my Jackpot. My estimation on miles so far is over 4K and still doing okay. I will more then likely leave it on as a perm fix rather then swapping entire cable and housing. I did take a dremel tool the first chance I got and reamed out all sharp edges on the clutch cable bushing. Just my experience and can't speak for others.

If you are going to replace everything. Removing tank is a must if you want to run the complete cable/cable housing correctly.
 

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When I replaced my cable with the Barnett, I did not completely remove the tank, just propped it up and reached under. There is a write-up about doing it this way here or on the VMC.
When I cleaned my TB's this spring and had to completely remove the tank, I wondered why I didn't just remove the tank for the cable change. Removing the tank is simple, with no fuel leaks, and will make life easier for you when changing the cable.
I had a little difficulty getting to the nut at the cable housing crossover at the trans side. It is a tight fit. Probably a trick there, but I don't know it.
BTDT,
Ken
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·

Thanks for all the advice. I got the cable in the mail yesterday and "Got her done". It wasn't all that bad. The trick to getting to the "bend at the end" was to take the battery box out..It just added about 15 min to the job but was well worth the extra. I also got one of the SAV-UR-RIDE's to take with me..I'm kinda glad I didn't get the SAV-UR-RIDE first because I would have probably done that first.
Thanks Again
Ride Safe
Sam
 

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th4fun said:
I just had the same thing happen to me. I order the "Sav-Ur-Ride" on Saturday afternoon, recieved it onMonday and was riding with in a hour.
Awesome!
Fantastic!....

Couple things....Did you take the liberty of filing down any sharp edges on the receiver drum at the lever? Just to try an avoid it from happening again.
Did you order a spare to keep on your bike just in case you or one of your friends has the same problem while on the road?
 
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