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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yep, the little barrel came off the end down by the clutch. Ordered a new cable that should be here in a few days. I have looked on FB for a video showing how to replace cable, housing, etc. Didn't find one. Anyone have a link to such a video or repair manual telling how it is done. Looks like the tank will have to come off to run the cable same route as stock. Any help will be appreciated.
 

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If I’m not mistaken, you can pull the cable out of the sheath and thread a new cable in without removing anything from the bike. The barrel attaches after the cable is installed. I know Witch Doctor’s carried the cable a while back when I looked. I don’t remember if it is a stock cable or aftermarket tho. I’m sure someone here knows and will reply soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If I'm not mistaken, you can pull the cable out of the sheath and thread a new cable in without removing anything from the bike. The barrel attaches after the cable is installed. I know Witch Doctor's carried the cable a while back when I looked. I don't remember if it is a stock cable or aftermarket tho. I'm sure someone here knows and will reply soon.
If I'm not mistaken, you can pull the cable out of the sheath and thread a new cable in without removing anything from the bike. The barrel attaches after the cable is installed. I know Witch Doctor's carried the cable a while back when I looked. I don't remember if it is a stock cable or aftermarket tho. I'm sure someone here knows and will reply soon.
That would be great - sounds a whole lot easier.
 

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I'm new here, but wanted to chime in on clutch cable replacements.

I have a (new to me) 2011 Cross Country that the previous owner decked out with the trunk, hard lowers, touring windshield, etc. So it's a XC Tour, just a year before they actually made them. It's got 40k on it. I noticed during clutch cable maintenance last week that it was starting to fray at the lever end.
I ordered a Barnett replacement cable for around $80. Since i was going to do a full replacement, the hydraulic kit would have been an option, but this was $300 cheaper. Maybe next time.

Replacing the clutch cable could not be easier. I couldn't find any videos about how to do it, so I just figured it out. Took about an hour, and half that time was taking off the seat, and the tank. I took off the fairing to make routing the cable around the front a bit easier (I also put in some HID bulbs), but you could probably get by without that part.

Remove seat, tank (and maybe fairing).
Remove cable barrel from clutch arm, and at clutch lever. Pull cable out of clutch perch.
Take a few photos of how the cable is routed on the right side of the bike.
Unscrew nut holding cable in the mount near the clutch arm.
Find all of the zipties holding it to other harnesses. (This was the trickiest part, as there was one tucked up under the left handlebar as it entered near the dash that I didn't see at first, and made it hard to get the cable out. Once I found and clipped it, old cable slid right out).
Route new cable starting at the right side lower/crash bar. Go around the triple tree up and out the left side of the fairing to the clutch perch. Let it hang for now.
Snake the rest of the cable along the right side, matching how the old one was routed. (see aren't you glad you took some pictures?)
Insert the other end in the mount near the clutch arm, tighten retaining nut.
Re-assemble clutch lever/ cable and barrel.
Re-attach cable barrel to clutch arm.
Zip tie down cable to frame/harnesses/ etc.
Adjust new cable for proper free play. Don't forget to grease it.
Re-assemble bike. Enjoy.

Not saying that the Sav-Ur-Ride isn't a good idea. But I found that the Barnett Clutch cable is encased in a sleeve that rides within the outer sleeve. This seems to make it pull a bit easier, maybe by reducing friction?
I'm sure a Sav Ur Ride would have gotten the job done, but I opted to go with a full replacement, which is truly is not difficult at all.
 

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...I recommend cleaning the ends of the clutch cable and attaching points, inspection and re-lube at every oil change ...takes a few minutes while the oil is dripping out... but each to their own :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
...I recommend cleaning the ends of the clutch cable and attaching points, inspection and re-lube at every oil change ...takes a few minutes while the oil is dripping out... but each to their own :)
Thanks; I will start tomorrow by checking the lever mechanism for rough spots, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
...I recommend cleaning the ends of the clutch cable and attaching points, inspection and re-lube at every oil change ...takes a few minutes while the oil is dripping out... but each to their own :)
This cable stuff is still new to me; my Yammies all had hydraulics ... I was kinda surprised to find Vics still using cables. But ... it is what it is
 

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This cable stuff is still new to me; my Yammies all had hydraulics ... I was kinda surprised to find Vics still using cables. But ... it is what it is
Me too, so I upgraded to hydraulic on my Magnum.
 

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Barnett cables get raves so go for it!
The sav-ur-rride cables are a great thing to keep in the bags as a just in case.
If you clean and inspect the ends at every oil change that will help.
What kills the cables is them being flexed sideways because they are dirty and not greased.
Never grease or oil a cable inside it's housing as that will gum it up.
 

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This cable stuff is still new to me; my Yammies all had hydraulics ... I was kinda surprised to find Vics still using cables. But ... it is what it is
How many miles before it broke? They don't last forever but with regular maintenance It should last 50k or more.
 

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Thanks, man, that is just what I was looking for. Now, just have to wait till that sucker gets here
What kind of cable did you order? The Barnette Cable is smoother and easier to pull than the stock one. It wouldn't be a good idea to use the Sav-ur-ride cable unless in an emergency. Once you pull the tank it's fairly easy to figure out the rest.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
If I'm not mistaken, you can pull the cable out of the sheath and thread a new cable in without removing anything from the bike. The barrel attaches after the cable is installed. I know Witch Doctor's carried the cable a while back when I looked. I don't remember if it is a stock cable or aftermarket tho. I'm sure someone here knows and will reply soon.
You were right. I got the Sav-Ur-Ride pac, but found out between ordering it and receiving it you can get the parts locally for a hell of a lot less money. I will keep that one for a last resort repair kit, but I got some stainless steel cable from a friend for free and the cable stops for a few dollars. I now can fix it a couple of times. Judging by the responses to this thread and previous threads, this is a common problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
How many miles before it broke? They don't last forever but with regular maintenance It should last 50k or more.
I have only put a few hundred miles on it, but it has 30k. I don't know if it was ever replaced before, but the end at the lever was black with grease/particles from wear.

BTW; I got the cable from Sav-Ur-Ride and there was 2 little pacs of grease. It looked a lot like Vaseline. Anyone know what they use? Could be Vaseline, I guess, but I wonder if there isn't something a little better for that job.
 

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Yep, the little barrel came off the end down by the clutch. Ordered a new cable that should be here in a few days. I have looked on FB for a video showing how to replace cable, housing, etc. Didn't find one. Anyone have a link to such a video or repair manual telling how it is done. Looks like the tank will have to come off to run the cable same route as stock. Any help will be appreciated.
You could always get a large heavy duty end terminal and crimp it to the end of the clutch cable to get you down the road til you get another one.
Buy Wire Terminals - Free Shipping over $50 | Zoro.com
You can normally find them in good stores like NAPA. Might find them in Autozone places but they aren't typically high quality. Done this before on several things. Heck, it's solid enough you can probably complete the entire trip. There's typically some slack in your adjustment cam to shorten or lengthen as needed. I got one stuffed somewhere in the bottom of my bag just in case. Much less room than an entire cable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
You could always get a large heavy duty end terminal and crimp it to the end of the clutch cable to get you down the road til you get another one.
Buy Wire Terminals - Free Shipping over $50 | Zoro.com
You can normally find them in good stores like NAPA. Might find them in Autozone places but they aren't typically high quality. Done this before on several things. Heck, it's solid enough you can probably complete the entire trip. There's typically some slack in your adjustment cam to shorten or lengthen as needed. I got one stuffed somewhere in the bottom of my bag just in case. Much less room than an entire cable.
I got some cable stops from Auto Zone, 6 to a pack (3 different sizes) and some SS cable from a friend. I will carry this stuff with me. I put a cable stop on the cable that was already on the bike and then put some JB Weld on the end where it came through the stop so it couldn't pull back through. At least that stop won't be the problem.
 
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