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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey there! For those interested, I just finished up installing the Chrome Glow lighting package on the back only. I selected the option with brake, turn signals, running and license plate light.

I also elected to have the bracket to hang the license plate under the LED kit.

Installation was easy, as was removing the fender. (You can’t do the mod without removing the fender in case you were wondering, and it only takes a few minutes.

In order to make the turn signals flash at the normal rate, you have to install their resistance box, $29.95, or do as I did, install a couple of 6 ohm, 50 watt resistors, available in a pack of 2 on amazon .com for 5 bucks.

The reasons I elected to go with the 2 resistors: first, the resistor box or whatever it’s called from chrome glow, is quite large, and I didn’t really have a place to put it. I believe this box will work for all 4 turn lights being LED’s, but I think my resistors would too, as they draw about 2 amps each. Second, I wanted to match the flash rate of the existing signals, which the resistors do.

Lastly, I was a bit concerned about the heat the resistors liberate: they do get quite warm after running the turn signal for a minute or so.

I deviated from the installation instructions quite a bit. But really because I didn’t like the wire piercing connectors they supplied, and also because I wanted the wiring to be as neat as possible under the fender, and protected from dirt and water. I should have taken pics of the installation, but I got busy and forgot.

Here’s where I deviated: first, I installed the resistors, one each side, in parallel with each two turn signal wire pair. When you remove the old turn signals and plastic signal and tail light assembly, you have to cut the wires. They don’t tell you to. I did so at the factory splices, so if I want to reinstall the factory bracket and turn signals, it easy. I used regular butt splices to splice the existing turn signal power and ground wires to both the led signal power, and ground, plus the resistor.

At the license plate light wires I did the same thing. Using butt splices instead of the taps supplied in the kit. Same thing for the brake light. I left the existing brake light wired up as well. For the running lights, I used two of the taps supplied to pierce the hot and ground wires, because I didn’t want to try and splice in a difficult area. The taps go at right angles to the wire. That’s why I didn’t want to use them throughout.

I would strongly recommend you use the butt splices that heat shrink down onto the wire. That keeps moisture out.

I mounted the two resistors at the back, under the fender, one on each side, sliding each resistor into a 5/8” Adel type clamp, with rubber insert in it. Hardware store item. 5 bucks for 2.

I secured the clamps to the two factory studs in the rear of the fender that were originally used to mount the old license plate/turn signal bracket assembly that was removed,nand now mount the LED light bar.

Finally, I didn’t like all the loose wires sitting out there in the breeze, water, mud etc. plus the connector for the tail and brake lights was secured through a hole in the removed bracket, and now had nowhere to go. So, I built a hard plastic cover, out of an old Honda VFR 800 tail assembly I had when I installed a fender eliminator. You could use a piece of sheet metal too, or a piece of heavy sheet plastic or nylon. Basically, the cover is just trimmed to match the profile of the fender sides, trimmed to length, and drilled to accept the forward studs that the original licenseplate/turn signal bracket was mounted too. The studs hold the cover on, they protect the wiring, plus I drilled a hole so the factory plug mount is secured to the cover.

I will post some pics of the lights completed. First is running lights on, left turn on. Second, running lights only. Third, brake, running, and left turn, fourth, brake and running lights. Note, it’s hard to see the brightness of the original brake light in this pic. Fifth, is brake, running, and right turn. I had a hell of a time timing my camera shot to the flash of the turn signal!

These resistors do liberate quite a bit of heat if left on for a while. Another reason why I didn’t want to mount them further up, like under the seat. They don’t get hot enough to melt the rubber compound inside the clamps, and of course, are only being heated while the turn signals are on.

The flash rate probably would have been ok if I had not installed the resistors, however, I am not sure of the logic flow of the turn signal cancelling system, it’s clearly much more complicated than most cars, and I didn’t want to have issues with the signals not cancelling.

The pics don’t really show the difference in intensity between the running lights and brake lights, but trust me, there is a marked difference.

Is this kit worth the Money? At $187 bucks or so,, it looks ok. Just not stellar. The license plate bracket is punched out of plastic and has rough finishing. The light bar is ok. I expected better. The profile of the light bar fits quite well with the bottom of the fender. There is some adjustment available through the studs in the fender. These are the same studs I mounted the resistor clamps to. They also hold the light bar in, using larger washers and existing nuts.

So take a look and see if you’d like to do this mod. In,Ike the look of the entire rear fender better, plus I get two brake lights for the cagers to look at before they hit me!


5,092 Posts
I have a similar one on my M109. They really clean up the rear of the bike and are brighter and light up a larger area than the stock signals. Nice install!

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