VOG Forum banner

CHK ENG light and stopped

1098 8
I had a problem in my 2013 Judge last weekend. I have decided to go for a ride just 60-75 miles round trip. While coming back, the engine light started showing up and Big pops from pipes couple of times. I was sure that the sound isn't normal and seems something happening.
I pulled over to check what's going on. I was thinking to take down the Error code from the dial after Engine light message and call service section, nearby dealer to check how critical it is. However, I didn't get any numbers. I tried to start the MC, it doesn't start and showing some reading like 7.9, 7.8, 7.7....till it dies. Some 'Grrrrr' sound came after I hit the start button.
I towed the motorcycle to my home and tried the same to start the MC by hitting start button. No sound and no luck. I was sure that something went wrong in the battery connection. Checked the connections by clean the socket area, cables, bolts...etc. Now, I am able to see 'N' and 'Hizzing' from fuel pump. but, doesn't start??
Finally checked the battery to ensure it has good volts. It was 11.7x, But, when turn on the key, it went below 6.5 and slowly going down like 6.4, 6.3... and dies.
I was assume that it is because of battery and replaced with Duracell. Everything is back to normal. MC runs nice now. I am not sure how the battery died in the middle of run?
1 - 9 of 9 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
102 Posts
I have seen batteries do some strange things in both cars and bikes. Once they get to a certain point they just die and it doesn't matter. They just won't recharge. In a car I owned I started it drove 20 miles, stopped to get gas and it wouldn't start 5 minutes later.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
243 Posts
I had a problem in my 2013 Judge last weekend. I have decided to go for a ride just 60-75 miles round trip. While coming back, the engine light started showing up and Big pops from pipes couple of times. I was sure that the sound isn't normal and seems something happening.
I pulled over to check what's going on. I was thinking to take down the Error code from the dial after Engine light message and call service section, nearby dealer to check how critical it is. However, I didn't get any numbers. I tried to start the MC, it doesn't start and showing some reading like 7.9, 7.8, 7.7....till it dies. Some 'Grrrrr' sound came after I hit the start button.
I towed the motorcycle to my home and tried the same to start the MC by hitting start button. No sound and no luck. I was sure that something went wrong in the battery connection. Checked the connections by clean the socket area, cables, bolts...etc. Now, I am able to see 'N' and 'Hizzing' from fuel pump. but, doesn't start??
Finally checked the battery to ensure it has good volts. It was 11.7x, But, when turn on the key, it went below 6.5 and slowly going down like 6.4, 6.3... and dies.
I was assume that it is because of battery and replaced with Duracell. Everything is back to normal. MC runs nice now. I am not sure how the battery died in the middle of run?
I had that happen to me twice with my Harley. No explanation, just riding along and a big POP and died and battery was shot. Replaced it and did the same thing almost exactly a year later. Replaced it with a better brand and no more problems. Never did find a cause.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Had the same problem again, even after I changed my battery, big pops and started loosing battery voltages? starting from 14...7 and stopped. It doesn't start. Tow it back to home. and changed with external charger for a day. And, Tried to start. Cranked and started the engine on first try without any issues. However, I am suspecting that my Regulator/rectifier having some issues. It started giving problem when I increase the speed above 80 mph and believe it can't take higher RPMs and unable to regulate volts generating from the engine. Please share your thoughts?
Thanks.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Seems like the rectifier is shot, or it "leaks" somwhere. The alternator is brushless so I bet that's okay. Might be some loose/dirty/corroded grounding connector?

Have you got a multimeter to check what voltage readings you get at the battery on certain rpm? Should be quite stable all the way through the rpm range.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Seems like the rectifier is shot, or it "leaks" somwhere. The alternator is brushless so I bet that's okay. Might be some loose/dirty/corroded grounding connector?

Have you got a multimeter to check what voltage readings you get at the battery on certain rpm? Should be quite stable all the way through the rpm range.
Thank you. I removed the R/R and tested with Multi meter. it gives 444,444,448 and reverse, it doesn't give any reading. It seems something wrong? I believe it supposed to show the same/nearly same values. Isn't it?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Hi, Sam!
By that measure, it looks to be okay. When measuring the diodes in reverse, it should block the current and show no connection, but it might short out when it gets hot, etc.

Here's a quite simple article on testing a recrifier:
Checking a Rectifier | Home Power Magazine

But I usually test the whole system by measuring the voltage from the battery terminals, in normal operating condition (battery leads on the battery). Sometimes it works fine when cold but starts acting up after everything is properly warmed up. So maybe check before and after a ride.

Check battery voltage before starting the engine. Should be above 13.2V. Then check for about 13.8-14V on idle. At around 1500-2000rpm it should be around 14.3-14.5V. At high idle (not redline, say 4-5krpm) it should be below 14.8V, anything higher takes a toll on the battery. After running for couple of minutes, shut it down and check the voltage again, should read higher than it was before starting the engine. It falls quickly at first, that's normal.

You can test for a drain/leak with a small 5W lightbulb, after shutting it down normally. You need to remove the battery negative cable and get the bulb between the negative terminal and the negative cable. If it lights up, something is using up power.

Hope you find the culprit!
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top