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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So was riding (had already ridden 125 miles) and the bike threw a CEL. When I got back the bike throws a blink-ode 31.

Here's the weird thing...bike stopped in neutral or clutch in, CEL off. Bike running at speed CEL on. If the bike is stopped and I pull the clutch in and rev the bike up CEL. So it's a load condition for sure.

So battery or rectifier? I'll have to go grab my multi-meter from storage to check the idle voltage but any head starts would be welcome.
 

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Before you start breaking out all the electrical stuff, just for yuks check your clutch micro-switch. If the rubber end is split or about to break off that could be the issue. That's happened to a few of us. If that is the issue don't buy a new one from Vic. There are other options at a fraction of the cost.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
No, it's not a clutch thing. If its in neural, clutch out, and I rev the bike up CEL.

Clutch in and in gear, rev the bike, and I get a CEL.

Clutch independent (plus the Blink code is telling of a charging system issue) but thanks for the idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes. 1st thing I checked. Plus the bike just came back from the Vic shop

I bought a new battery today and will see if that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Got the old multi-meter out and there was 4-ish Volts across the battery...so that'll cause issues.

Tossed the new battery and it it started right up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, the new battery is dead. So either the charging system is "Dead" and it was running on the battery the whole time I was riding or there is a drain...but how do you get a drain when nothing has changed grrrr
 

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I installed a FuzeBlock FZ1 and ran a GPS tracker through it that wasn't supposed to draw much but with a new battery it was draining in about a week with no startups. Something is stuck on or plugged in to non-keyed power maybe. Fuel Controller, accessories, etc. may draw electricity when bike is off. Try pulling the relays in the fuse block one at a time then reinstall, listen for a click to see if one of them is stuck closed. Pull each fuse and reinstall one at a time, maybe you'll find the problem. I had Toyota that had a drain, turned out was the wiper relay stuck closed, would kill the battery in 6 hours.
 

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The easiest way to check it is to take the negative lead off the battery, then use a DC ammeter to bridge the lead and the battery post. You'll know just how much current draw you've got. Then do as @PDXLaserGazer suggested; pull each fuse individually until and ammeter falls to zero. That will extensively narrow your search for a short.

Also, be aware that it may be that one of the rectifier diodes in your regulator may have shorted. Usually, they fail open but I've had diodes short. You do that by plumbing in the ammeter as above and just unplug the voltage regulator from the harness.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yup, I'll run and grab my battery charger this weekend and get the battery back up and then run through the troubleshooting in the Book.

I only have 2 accessories; shore power pigtail and fuel controller. I know the fuel controller was "moved" during the engine building of the bike...maybe there is an issue there. I guess the pigtail could be internally fused but I see no heat or melting on it.

Quest continues....
 

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I hate to sound uninformed but what's a CEL? Never heard of it until now.
 

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Check Engine Light
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Ran through the testing the best I can as I do not have a diode tester and forgot to grab my 20A shunt...

  • Battery is fine as it's brand new (load test via the headlight)
  • Drain down was 1.2 mA and spec is 2 mA
  • Stator resistance is 0.1-0.2 Ohm across all three phases and all open to ground
  • Idle voltage is 14.4-14.8V
  • 2500 RPM is 18-20V !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Book says anything greater than 14.8V at 2500 RPM is rectifier so I'll try that.

I doubt this is a stator issue (even though I wasn't able to test the AC output) since all the phases were showing the same resistance so I have a rectifier on order.

I guess the last battery died because I cooked it with the overcharge.

I'll grab my shunt since the damn Allen for the rectifier is a 5mm instead of the 4 or 6 I had....
 

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Swap the leads on your volt/ohm meter when checking the stator. One orientation should give you a trivial resistance, the reverse orientation should show high (nearly infinite) resistance. If not, you've got a shorted diode.

Also, be sure the ground lead of the rectifier/regulator is not loose or corroded. A floating ground will give you a high voltage output.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
You test the stator independent of the rectifier - three plug goes straight to the stator. You do not test the DC side of the rectifier. To test the AC side you have the bike turn over and read the AC at the stator side (48V or so).

The diode test needs a diode tester which I do not have.

Also, you test all the combinations of the phases' resistance and they should match - mine did.

I followed the flowchart on pg 16.10.
 

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Gotcha. I've only done this on HD's; the rectifier and regulator are integral. Most multimeters have a diode testing position of the resistance range switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Vics are integral to each other (single unit for the regulator and rectifier) but separate from the stator/rotor components.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
On the 'Pin the rectifier is at the front of the engine frame, under the starter, so it can be cooled by the moving air.

On the ride where I threw the first CEL I high centered the bike on a wicked speed bump - I was barley moving but still hit.

Even though I saw no damage anywhere under the bike I heard a hit (I figured the kickstand boss as it hangs low). I'm thinking I must have actually hit the rectifier since it's the first thing over that monster bump.
 

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The Heritage that I worked on was the last year where carburation was available; it had the carburetor vs. fuel injection. The diode failed shorted and blew the speedo and cooked the battery as well. The owner was lucky that it wasn't a fuel injected bike, as I'm really sure it would have blown the ECU. It hadn't occurred to me until we began discussion about checking diodes, that if you had a diode(s) fail shorted, you would have cooked your ECU as well.

Sounds as though you've got it narrowed down; faulty regulator going high, or a faulty/loose ground causing the regulator's reference voltage to float high.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Swapped in the new rectifier and running at 14.4-14.8 V at 2500 RPM and even up to 3500 RPM.

Shakedown ride went well and no CEL. Guess that got it.
 
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