From the test I have done the ECM checks the circuit of the IAC . If you or I disconnect the iac plug the check engine light comes on. If I plug any of the hoses to the iac no light, so the ECM doesn't turn on the check engine light if there is no response to the iac valves actions it just makes sure the iac is there. There is another issue if you turn the air down to far the iac will try and add air because the idle is to low. The ECM tells the iac to add air to control the idle speed. So if your trying or tried to get the Harley lope by turning the air down witch in turn will drop your idle, the ECM will keep power on the iac trying to increase the idle and that in turn (May ) damage the ECU or burn out your iac motor. And if the ECU doesn't see the load of the iac motor it will turn on the check engine light...... Hope this helpsrosskp said:
If a battery has the balls to start a bike it's fine. A good test for the battery would be to leave the key on for 2 or 3 min with the headlight killing the battery. If it still starts the battery is okkevinx said:
Nope. It's not about the energy it holds. It's about the frequency and resistance through it. Burnt up mat in the battery wreaks havoc with Vic IAC. I'm not guessing here. I'm passing on hard learned and proven expieriance. Do with it what you wish, but in the end remember this conversationrobsvision said:
If you start the bike and the voltage is at 14 volts controlled by the regulator how is that an issue. Also don't forget the ECU controls the iac.kevinx said:
Kevin I understand you have lots of experience with these bikes and I am not trying to argue. But when it comes to noise in electrical circuits a bad battery is very unlikely.... I work with electronic circuit boards every day. Noise is a big issue for me. But the only way a battery could cause an issue like this is if the terminals were arcing. Or there was an open or short periodically in the battery. And believe me I have seen the later. But there is to many of these bikes with this issue to be all bad batteries. Way to many. If a new battery cured this issue then I say it was a fluke... I have a new battery in my ATV I could install in my bike. You really think it will cure the stalling? Or are you saying it will cure a different issue? Are we talking the same problem? If we are talking the same issue let me know I will change the battery then I will open the Lloydz idle air valve and see if the stalling issue goes away. and if you are right I will come on here and say so. I will eat my words. I will always admit when I am wrong.........kevinx said:
I see we are not talking the same issue I have or had the stalling issue just of idle. No check engine light no erratic idle. That's what I thought we were talking about. There is 2 threads running on here talking about the iac... (((((((((( My mistake.. )))))))))))) And yes an erratic or unstable input to the ECU will make it difficult to produce a regulated 5v output for sensors and stepper motor that is found inside the iac.... That can and will eventually damage the ECU. You must have read all the complaints about stalling. And don't blip a Vic? What's your take on that issue? And to recap were not talking about blipping like the Harley guys do. Most of the guys with this issue will tell you that the bike will stall when rev matching for a down shift or just plain rolling into the throttle to go from a stop sign or light.. For me the stall would occurs with just a slight amount of throttle. Lloydz idle air control valve turned way down and then adjust the idle back up with the stop screw has cured 99% of the stalling. No amount of adjusting the fuel controller would make any difference. Unplugging the o2 sensors made no difference to the stalling. That's what I thought you were saying is caused by the battery...kevinx said:
Your just another smart ass aren't you? I thought most people grew out of that!!bikendad said:
Title of the thread said check engine light. I assumed we were staying within the topic. As for blipping.....I do it all the time. My bike does not stall. I do not run the Lloydz valve, and it has had cams, timing wheel, filter and controller since about 2 hours after I bought it. Fuel controller and timing wheel are the only sure cures I know of for the lean blip thing.robsvision said:
