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Check Engine light/IAC problem

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Ok after countless days and nites trying to find the problem I give up! Here's what's happening. 2010 XC, stage 1, LLoyds IAV, gen III, , 25,000 miles, o2 sensors off. I started having the check engine light started coming on, the code states that a circuit is open or there's a short to battery power. Went through all the tests in the service manual and they all passed. I went back through all the tests again after going through all the wiring related to the IAC. found a couple of bad wires, fixed all. Replaced engine relay, IAC, wiring harness and connector for the Iac. problem is still there. haven't gone to dealer because I don't have one anymore(went out of business 2 weeks after I bought it) and I don't want to pay them to trace an electrical problem at $85-$110 hr. I'm at a loss as to what it is. I did go back and did another check of the IAC circuit and everything checks out. While I was doing the voltage tests which says power should be to pins 2, 5 from the 87 terminal of the engine relay I decided to see if power was at any of the other pins at the IAC connector. Pin 3 was the only other one that had power. My ??? can anyone out there do a check of pin 3 on the connector to ground voltage check to see if that's the problem and if so would an ECM reflash be a possible fix??? and yes battery terminals are fine. I'm going to attach the procedure for checking the IAC from the service manual. What ever is causing this is stopping the IAC to fuction, which in turn won't allow the IAV to adjustment.
I hope that someone can do me this favor and maybe even suggest a fix for this, as it's very frustrating having a great bike that I can't ride!!
Thanks

Ken
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The second line of your post it says that you have LLoyds IAV installed? Doesn't that replace the IAC?
I know this sounds genaric but. How old is your battery? Can you pull it out and have it tested for its condition. While its out probably wouldn't be a bad idea to change out the main circuit breaker. Hope someone can answer your power question. I would but I'm 1500 miles from my bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

Thanks for the reply. No the IAV gives the IAC adjustability and by passes the ECM's settings for air control, the main fuse has been changed and the battery cheecked. The service manual is almost useless as a troubleshooter. going to try to get it to a dealer this week(2 1/2 hr drive} and get it on the digital wrench to see what's going on. will let you know what I find.....
 

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Do the iac reset...cycle key three times without turning on. Listen each time for the iac to make noise. If that fixes it great...if not then take the IAV out of the equation and repeat the reset. That may help. That valve does not bypass the Idle Air Control it limits the volume of air going to the control itself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

I've tried the reset, didn't work, tomorrow going to remove the IAV and the tuner and see what happens. The IAC is not allowing air to go through it. I've pulled the hoses off while the bike is running and very little change. I'm thinking that it is something in the ECM so I'll have to get it to a dealer if that's the case. Have to wait till everyone gets back from Sturgis. thanks for the reply, I'll keep posting updates as they happen. If I can't find the problem , then I'll ship it off to one of LLoyds people either the Ness guys or the dealer in Vegas. I don't have any dealers around me that I would trust. I'd give anything for a full service dealer within an hours ride. I figure if I can't fix it and I have to pay someone then they better know the machine. Have a good day,,,,,,
 

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rosskp said:
I've tried the reset, didn't work, tomorrow going to remove the IAV and the tuner and see what happens. The IAC is not allowing air to go through it. I've pulled the hoses off while the bike is running and very little change. I'm thinking that it is something in the ECM so I'll have to get it to a dealer if that's the case. Have to wait till everyone gets back from Sturgis. thanks for the reply, I'll keep posting updates as they happen. If I can't find the problem , then I'll ship it off to one of LLoyds people either the Ness guys or the dealer in Vegas. I don't have any dealers around me that I would trust. I'd give anything for a full service dealer within an hours ride. I figure if I can't fix it and I have to pay someone then they better know the machine. Have a good day,,,,,,
From the test I have done the ECM checks the circuit of the IAC . If you or I disconnect the iac plug the check engine light comes on. If I plug any of the hoses to the iac no light, so the ECM doesn't turn on the check engine light if there is no response to the iac valves actions it just makes sure the iac is there. There is another issue if you turn the air down to far the iac will try and add air because the idle is to low. The ECM tells the iac to add air to control the idle speed. So if your trying or tried to get the Harley lope by turning the air down witch in turn will drop your idle, the ECM will keep power on the iac trying to increase the idle and that in turn (May ) damage the ECU or burn out your iac motor. And if the ECU doesn't see the load of the iac motor it will turn on the check engine light...... Hope this helps
 

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kevinx said:
Replace your battery
If a battery has the balls to start a bike it's fine. A good test for the battery would be to leave the key on for 2 or 3 min with the headlight killing the battery. If it still starts the battery is ok
 

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robsvision said:
If a battery has the balls to start a bike it's fine. A good test for the battery would be to leave the key on for 2 or 3 min with the headlight killing the battery. If it still starts the battery is ok
Nope. It's not about the energy it holds. It's about the frequency and resistance through it. Burnt up mat in the battery wreaks havoc with Vic IAC. I'm not guessing here. I'm passing on hard learned and proven expieriance. Do with it what you wish, but in the end remember this conversation
 

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kevinx said:
Nope. It's not about the energy it holds. It's about the frequency and resistance through it. Burnt up mat in the battery wreaks havoc with Vic IAC. I'm not guessing here. I'm passing on hard learned and proven expieriance. Do with it what you wish, but in the end remember this conversation
If you start the bike and the voltage is at 14 volts controlled by the regulator how is that an issue. Also don't forget the ECU controls the iac.
 

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As I said it is not about voltage. It is about frequency and resistance. Yes the ECM controls it, but how many people have reported a slightly loose connection makeing their idle eradic, stalling, etc. I'm not arguing here, I just telling you what fixed the last 4 bikes I worked on with IAC based check engine lights. They all cranked right up, and charged just fine. As I said pay attention or not.. My bake runs great
 

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kevinx said:
As I said it is not about voltage. It is about frequency and resistance. Yes the ECM controls it, but how many people have reported a slightly loose connection makeing their idle eradic, stalling, etc. I'm not arguing here, I just telling you what fixed the last 4 bikes I worked on with IAC based check engine lights. They all cranked right up, and charged just fine. As I said pay attention or not.. My bake runs great
Kevin I understand you have lots of experience with these bikes and I am not trying to argue. But when it comes to noise in electrical circuits a bad battery is very unlikely.... I work with electronic circuit boards every day. Noise is a big issue for me. But the only way a battery could cause an issue like this is if the terminals were arcing. Or there was an open or short periodically in the battery. And believe me I have seen the later. But there is to many of these bikes with this issue to be all bad batteries. Way to many. If a new battery cured this issue then I say it was a fluke... I have a new battery in my ATV I could install in my bike. You really think it will cure the stalling? Or are you saying it will cure a different issue? Are we talking the same problem? If we are talking the same issue let me know I will change the battery then I will open the Lloydz idle air valve and see if the stalling issue goes away. and if you are right I will come on here and say so. I will eat my words. I will always admit when I am wrong.........
 

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robsvision said:
Kevin I understand you have lots of experience with these bikes and I am not trying to argue. But when it comes to noise in electrical circuits a bad battery is very unlikely.... I work with electronic circuit boards every day. Noise is a big issue for me. But the only way a battery could cause an issue like this is if the terminals were arcing. Or there was an open or short periodically in the battery. And believe me I have seen the later. But there is to many of these bikes with this issue to be all bad batteries. Way to many. If a new battery cured this issue then I say it was a fluke... I have a new battery in my ATV I could install in my bike. You really think it will cure the stalling? Or are you saying it will cure a different issue? Are we talking the same problem? If we are talking the same issue let me know I will change the battery then I will open the Lloydz idle air valve and see if the stalling issue goes away. and if you are right I will come on here and say so. I will eat my words. I will always admit when I am wrong.........
WOW, you work on circuit boards everyday and Kevin works on Victory Motorcycles everyday and has solved this exact issue numerous times so no sense in listening to him just move along.......
 

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If you have an erratic idle, and you are getting a check engine light for the IAC. I am saying it is the battery. Once would be a fluke, twice might be a coincidence, but 4 in a row is a pattern. I am not talking about noise. I am talking about an ECM trying to create a low amperage 5v reference, and operate step motors with an unstable battery. I FIX these things for a living, and do my best to remember what causes what. Put a good TS20BS battery in and see. Beats the **** out of chasing your tale looking after the wrong thing. When you have been given the answer
 

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kevinx said:
If you have an erratic idle, and you are getting a check engine light for the IAC. I am saying it is the battery. Once would be a fluke, twice might be a coincidence, but 4 in a row is a pattern. I am not talking about noise. I am talking about an ECM trying to create a low amperage 5v reference, and operate step motors with an unstable battery. I FIX these things for a living, and do my best to remember what causes what. Put a good TS20BS battery in and see. Beats the sh%t out of chasing your tale looking after the wrong thing. When you have been given the answer
Hey Kevin, could you explain that for us please LMAO!
 

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kevinx said:
If you have an erratic idle, and you are getting a check engine light for the IAC. I am saying it is the battery. Once would be a fluke, twice might be a coincidence, but 4 in a row is a pattern. I am not talking about noise. I am talking about an ECM trying to create a low amperage 5v reference, and operate step motors with an unstable battery. I FIX these things for a living, and do my best to remember what causes what. Put a good TS20BS battery in and see. Beats the sh%t out of chasing your tale looking after the wrong thing. When you have been given the answer
I see we are not talking the same issue I have or had the stalling issue just of idle. No check engine light no erratic idle. That's what I thought we were talking about. There is 2 threads running on here talking about the iac... (((((((((( My mistake.. )))))))))))) And yes an erratic or unstable input to the ECU will make it difficult to produce a regulated 5v output for sensors and stepper motor that is found inside the iac.... That can and will eventually damage the ECU. You must have read all the complaints about stalling. And don't blip a Vic? What's your take on that issue? And to recap were not talking about blipping like the Harley guys do. Most of the guys with this issue will tell you that the bike will stall when rev matching for a down shift or just plain rolling into the throttle to go from a stop sign or light.. For me the stall would occurs with just a slight amount of throttle. Lloydz idle air control valve turned way down and then adjust the idle back up with the stop screw has cured 99% of the stalling. No amount of adjusting the fuel controller would make any difference. Unplugging the o2 sensors made no difference to the stalling. That's what I thought you were saying is caused by the battery...
 

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bikendad said:
Hey Kevin, could you explain that for us please LMAO!
Your just another smart ass aren't you? I thought most people grew out of that!!
 

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robsvision said:
I see we are not talking the same issue I have or had the stalling issue just of idle. No check engine light no erratic idle. That's what I thought we were talking about. There is 2 threads running on here talking about the iac... (((((((((( My mistake.. )))))))))))) And yes an erratic or unstable input to the ECU will make it difficult to produce a regulated 5v output for sensors and stepper motor that is found inside the iac.... That can and will eventually damage the ECU. You must have read all the complaints about stalling. And don't blip a Vic? What's your take on that issue? And to recap were not talking about blipping like the Harley guys do. Most of the guys with this issue will tell you that the bike will stall when rev matching for a down shift or just plain rolling into the throttle to go from a stop sign or light.. For me the stall would occurs with just a slight amount of throttle. Lloydz idle air control valve turned way down and then adjust the idle back up with the stop screw has cured 99% of the stalling. No amount of adjusting the fuel controller would make any difference. Unplugging the o2 sensors made no difference to the stalling. That's what I thought you were saying is caused by the battery...
Title of the thread said check engine light. I assumed we were staying within the topic. As for blipping.....I do it all the time. My bike does not stall. I do not run the Lloydz valve, and it has had cams, timing wheel, filter and controller since about 2 hours after I bought it. Fuel controller and timing wheel are the only sure cures I know of for the lean blip thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·

Kevin,
Thank you for getting to the bottom of this. I'm going out to get a battery and will get back to you as soon as I get it in. The shop manual for these bikes sucks!! no full wiring diagrams, and without the Digital Wrench, you just have to go with the process of elimination. After this is fixed, I'm going for a long $%s ride. I knew that someone here that could read and had the experience would steer me in the right direction. I figured that I was on borrowed time with the battery which is 3 years old. on my way to get new battery!!!
Again thank you for the help and thank you for being apart of this forum, your expertise is invaluable!!
Ken
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·

robsvision said:
Your just another smart a$$ aren't you? I thought most people grew out of that!!
Really!!! one should think about what they are saying, before putting their foot in it!!!
 
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