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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yes I have searched and watched the Witchdoctors video, he has 2 on this subject.

My question Do you need a fork spring compressor to change the fork oil or can you just pour the oil into the top without disassembling the whole fork.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Did it just like Jon shows you in the video.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys
I am replacing my 2 tires this winter with the Elite 4,s and will do fork oil at same time. If bearings look good front and back I will leave them for next time. Bike has 65 kilomteres on it. I ordered and rec'd K and N stage 1 air filter and some new rubber arm protectors for my tour pack. My dealer had no problem getting these parts so that was good news. I think I will go with the 10 wt oil as others have suggested. Amsol??????
 
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Yes Amsoil Shock Therapy Medium #10 Suspension Fluid
 

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That's what I used, need 2 qts though, 500 cc per shock, just a tad over 2 qts.
 
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FYI, when I did my fork oil change at 25,000 miles the fluid I poured out was very gray and thick. I built a spring compressor to completely disassemble the fork. Glad I did, the cartridge and interior parts were covered in sludge. IMHO you can not clean this sludge out by just replacing the oil. You have already done most of the work getting the forks off, either completely disassemble them or take them to a competent shop for cleaning. You'ii be glad you did.
 

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Yes I have searched and watched the Witchdoctors video, he has 2 on this subject.

My question Do you need a fork spring compressor to change the fork oil or can you just pour the oil into the top without disassembling the whole fork.

Thanks in advance.
The manual has a note in it

NOTE: The oil quantity slightly exceeds fork capacity. Final fork oil level must be adjusted correctly as outlined later.

A few paragraphs later under oil level adjustment, there is a measurement done from the top of the tube to the oil level with springs removed, cartridge at bottom of travel, and tube upright.

SPECIFICATIONS: 106mm (4.17") +\- 1mm (.040")

That said, if everything is drained well, the "About 500 cc" of oil should be really close. I wouldn't exceed that amount but I would make damn sure that both have the same amount. That will make them linear. The measurement is best, but this is sufficient. I've done that very same thing on other bikes but always make sure the fluid amounts are the same and not over the limit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Barry

Any pics on the compressor you built??? I don't want to buy one for the odd time I use it.

Thanks.
 

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Yes I do. Built it out of parts I had laying around here. I fitted everything up and had it welded up. Go figure, I worked for a Structural Steel Fabricator for over 12 years and still can't weld? The wood blocks secure the spring front to back inside the pipe. I squared off the ends of the bolts so they would hold onto the spring a little better. This thing worked great, in fact, I used it for removing the middle gear on the Vmax when i had to rebuild that transmission. So its a pretty versatile compressor.

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks Barry for the pics. Wish I was closer so I could come over and borrow the compressor. I just don't want to spend 200 dollars for a Racetech compressor. I would never use it often enough so I was thinking of a easier way to do it. Was thinking I could make something out of a set of bar clamps. Guess I have all winter to fiqure this out.

If anybody else has a idea on this please post.
 

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Like has been said, you need to disassemble the forks and clean out the sludge or you're going to have worn out fork part problems. The witchdoctor video is a half assed way of doing it.
 

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Like has been said, you need to disassemble the forks and clean out the sludge or you're going to have worn out fork part problems. The witchdoctor video is a half assed way of doing it.
Since you pull the fork cap off to pour the fluid into it, I would think you could rinse the heck out of it without disassembling the entire thing to do it.
 

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Since you pull the fork cap off to pour the fluid into it, I would think you could rinse the heck out of it without disassembling the entire thing to do it.
Not what I've been told, think SLUDGE.
 

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Agreed, mineral spirits or turpentine, close, slosh, drain, couple times. Ain't gonna be much left after that.
 

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Thanks Barry for the pics. Wish I was closer so I could come over and borrow the compressor. I just don't want to spend 200 dollars for a Racetech compressor. I would never use it often enough so I was thinking of a easier way to do it. Was thinking I could make something out of a set of bar clamps. Guess I have all winter to fiqure this out.

If anybody else has a idea on this please post.
I could ship it to you at your cost. But it's pretty heavy, 30#s or so. By the time you ship it back to me the cost could be almost $100. I'll bet you could get the forks disassembled, cleaned and put back together for that cost or close to it. My guess, book time on the forks alone should be about an hour for a pro. At about $100 an hour.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I like the idea of using a solvent of some kind to rinse out the old oil. Mineral spirits or turpentine would be ok for the seals etc?

thanks again everybody for all of the ideas.
 

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I like the idea of using a solvent of some kind to rinse out the old oil. Mineral spirits or turpentine would be ok for the seals etc?

thanks again everybody for all of the ideas.
Both are an oils. Turpentine is a bit more volatile but works better for cleaning but is a bit more expensive.
 
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