Changed Battery - turns over, won't start, no lights, dash, horn | Victory Motorcycles: Motorcycle Forums

Changed Battery - turns over, won't start, no lights, dash, horn

Discussion in 'Victory Cross Country' started by dcrider, Apr 12, 2020.

  1. dcrider

    dcrider New Member

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    Hello,

    Battery was weak at the beginning of the season, charged it and rode for about an hour. Decided to replace it as it is 6 years old at this point.

    Swapped the new battery in after charging it, and the bike almost seemed to catch, I hear the fuel prime. No will not start. No odometer, horn, lights, radio, but will turn over. This makes me think it is not the main 40 amp breaker.

    What should I check next? How do I tell if the fuse is any good?

    Any advice?

    Thanks
     
  2. dcrider

    dcrider New Member

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    Checked the fuses with a multi-meter, all are good. No power, outside of oil light and neutral switch in either ON or AUX position. Will turnover.

    Also, after charging the old battery and taking it out for a spin last week, the gauges dropped to zero, lights all off, radio off 3 or 4 times...checked the battery terminals and they were loose. Chalked up that behavior to the loose connections. Tried to start the bike two days after that and it barely started.

    So I ordered new battery.

    Searching other suggestions, today I also checked the connections on the 40 amp breaker and they are tight and well greased.

    Only rode the CCT about 500 miles last year. Put half tank of fresh gas in when charging battery. Power was smooth, no hiccups, rode fantastic except for those couple of power losses - each time it started right back up on its own with nothing from me, while in motion. Like a momentary blip.
     
  3. jmstang302

    jmstang302 Well-Known Member

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    Sounds like the new battery is shorted out.

    Put the old one back in and see if you don't have power to everything again?
     
  4. dcrider

    dcrider New Member

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    yep, tried that as well - charged it up to 95% and dropped it in

    same results...
     
  5. jmstang302

    jmstang302 Well-Known Member

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    I think I recall an ignition switch coming apart posted here in the past?

    Pull that out and have a look around.

    Have you checked the rest of the ground wires?
     
  6. 1stVictory

    1stVictory Well-Known Member

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    Go to Napa and buy the 40amp breaker to replace the cheap plastic one next to the battery. Cutting out for no reason appears to be caused by a faulty 40amp breaker unless you were blipping the throttle. Don't do that either. The system doesn't like it.
     
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  7. jmstang302

    jmstang302 Well-Known Member

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    The bike is acting half powered. If the breaker trips it won't crank like it is.

    Another item known to cause weird power up issues it the turnsignal flasher.
     
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  8. slickvic

    slickvic Well-Known Member

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    I have to disagree with the plastic 40 amp being a cheap one 1st Victory. Done a little research and what I found is the plastic one is marine grade. It is sealed from weather. It is actually a solid piece internally and the same part internally as the metal case one from Napa. Both from the same manufacturer. Use either one is fine but the metal cased unit would need to be sealed with silicone around the edge for MC duty. It’s location is a direct hit to wind and water. Personally I would want the plastic one back in place. Carry on.
     
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  9. satxron

    satxron Well-Known Member

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    Happened to me many years ago. But my fuel pump wouldn't spin up. It was the one of the main breakers.
     
  10. 1stVictory

    1stVictory Well-Known Member

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    Slick, I sealed the composite base to the metal case using 5 minute epoxy the evening before I fought like a bugger installing it! That’s why I always say don’t keep it on the bike because trying to change it out anywhere but in the comforts of a garage will be near impossible. Way back in about 2013 someone posted that their problem was a corroded breaker interior from water seepage. He used the Napa breaker. When I removed mine, it was damp inside but no corrosion. That was why I decided to seal the case with epoxy. Whatever floats your boat.
     
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  11. slickvic

    slickvic Well-Known Member

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    When I recently did mine I did use the metal one. The plastic one ( stock) was stripped and I couldn’t get the nut to tighten down so my spare was used. Either one is good. The plastic one is just a marine version. I actually took it apart to see the guts inside and it was not that easy to take apart. They ( the plastic ones ) are sealed very well.
    I made the mistake of buying small SS screws and nylon lock nuts to secure the replacement. My next attempt on the other bike will be simple tie straps for on the road surgery.
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2020
  12. dcrider

    dcrider New Member

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    I am correct to assume that this is an all or nothing breaker - if it is failing, no power to anywhere on the bike? I assume that because it is the first thing the positive lead hits.

    With my case, I do have some power - the whiney spin up, and the ability to crank. I see the odometer light up only as I turn the key off for a brief second, which is weird.
     
  13. Poseidon

    Poseidon Well-Known Member

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    The breaker is all or none. Since your bike turns over it is not the breaker. Did you check all the fuses? They are not all located in the same place. I would pull a spark plug to ensure you are getting spark. Next I would check fuel pressure. Even tho you hear it priming, it won’t start if you don’t have the correct pressure. If the voltage isn’t correct, it will not run. Voltage regulator would be something else to check.

    do you have the service manual? If not, down load it for free with the link below. Second to last manual in the list will cover your bike. I keep it on my phone with a pdf app, that way it is handy wherever I’m at. Most bikes don’t break down at home.

    MediaFire
     
  14. 1stVictory

    1stVictory Well-Known Member

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    Charging a new battery? They are at about 80% off the shelf and rising for a couple of hours will take it up to max. Take the battery back to where you bought it and have them do a load test. To me it appears to be duff. Is it a gel cell battery (like the OEM one) or lead acid - hopefully not! Also buy a battery maintainer. When not riding, attach it to the bike using the usual male cig lighter end plugged into the terminal on the fairing.
     
  15. dcrider

    dcrider New Member

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    I bought a YTX20HL-BS from our friends at Amazon. 310 cc amps. 18aH.

    Which sounds like lead acid. I charged it fully overnight, charger said maintaining rather than charging next morning. I also charged the old battery to 95% put it back in after the replacement battery acted strangely and it showed the exact same behavior where it almost wants to catch, only the neutral and oil lights are on, no other electrics.

    I only checked the fuses on the right side of the seat, behind the plastic cover. All of those fuses had continuity.

    Where are the other fuses?
     

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