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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

Battery was weak at the beginning of the season, charged it and rode for about an hour. Decided to replace it as it is 6 years old at this point.

Swapped the new battery in after charging it, and the bike almost seemed to catch, I hear the fuel prime. No will not start. No odometer, horn, lights, radio, but will turn over. This makes me think it is not the main 40 amp breaker.

What should I check next? How do I tell if the fuse is any good?

Any advice?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Checked the fuses with a multi-meter, all are good. No power, outside of oil light and neutral switch in either ON or AUX position. Will turnover.

Also, after charging the old battery and taking it out for a spin last week, the gauges dropped to zero, lights all off, radio off 3 or 4 times...checked the battery terminals and they were loose. Chalked up that behavior to the loose connections. Tried to start the bike two days after that and it barely started.

So I ordered new battery.

Searching other suggestions, today I also checked the connections on the 40 amp breaker and they are tight and well greased.

Only rode the CCT about 500 miles last year. Put half tank of fresh gas in when charging battery. Power was smooth, no hiccups, rode fantastic except for those couple of power losses - each time it started right back up on its own with nothing from me, while in motion. Like a momentary blip.
 

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Go to Napa and buy the 40amp breaker to replace the cheap plastic one next to the battery. Cutting out for no reason appears to be caused by a faulty 40amp breaker unless you were blipping the throttle. Don't do that either. The system doesn't like it.
 

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Go to Napa and buy the 40amp breaker to replace the cheap plastic one next to the battery. Cutting out for no reason appears to be caused by a faulty 40amp breaker unless you were blipping the throttle. Don't do that either. The system doesn't like it.
I have to disagree with the plastic 40 amp being a cheap one 1st Victory. Done a little research and what I found is the plastic one is marine grade. It is sealed from weather. It is actually a solid piece internally and the same part internally as the metal case one from Napa. Both from the same manufacturer. Use either one is fine but the metal cased unit would need to be sealed with silicone around the edge for MC duty. It's location is a direct hit to wind and water. Personally I would want the plastic one back in place. Carry on.
 

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Happened to me many years ago. But my fuel pump wouldn't spin up. It was the one of the main breakers.
 

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I have to disagree with the plastic 40 amp being a cheap one 1st Victory. Done a little research and what I found is the plastic one is marine grade. It is sealed from weather. It is actually a solid piece internally and the same part internally as the metal case one from Napa. Both from the same manufacturer. Use either one is fine but the metal cased unit would need to be sealed with silicone around the edge for MC duty. It's location is a direct hit to wind and water. Personally I would want the plastic one back in place. Carry on.
Slick, I sealed the composite base to the metal case using 5 minute epoxy the evening before I fought like a bugger installing it! That's why I always say don't keep it on the bike because trying to change it out anywhere but in the comforts of a garage will be near impossible. Way back in about 2013 someone posted that their problem was a corroded breaker interior from water seepage. He used the Napa breaker. When I removed mine, it was damp inside but no corrosion. That was why I decided to seal the case with epoxy. Whatever floats your boat.
 
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Slick, I sealed the composite base to the metal case using 5 minute epoxy the evening before I fought like a bugger installing it! That's why I always say don't keep it on the bike because trying to change it out anywhere but in the comforts of a garage will be near impossible. Way back in about 2013 someone posted that their problem was a corroded breaker interior from water seepage. He used the Napa breaker. When I removed mine, it was damp inside but no corrosion. That was why I decided to seal the case with epoxy. Whatever floats your boat.
When I recently did mine I did use the metal one. The plastic one ( stock) was stripped and I couldn't get the nut to tighten down so my spare was used. Either one is good. The plastic one is just a marine version. I actually took it apart to see the guts inside and it was not that easy to take apart. They ( the plastic ones ) are sealed very well.
I made the mistake of buying small SS screws and nylon lock nuts to secure the replacement. My next attempt on the other bike will be simple tie straps for on the road surgery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I am correct to assume that this is an all or nothing breaker - if it is failing, no power to anywhere on the bike? I assume that because it is the first thing the positive lead hits.

With my case, I do have some power - the whiney spin up, and the ability to crank. I see the odometer light up only as I turn the key off for a brief second, which is weird.
 

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The breaker is all or none. Since your bike turns over it is not the breaker. Did you check all the fuses? They are not all located in the same place. I would pull a spark plug to ensure you are getting spark. Next I would check fuel pressure. Even tho you hear it priming, it won't start if you don't have the correct pressure. If the voltage isn't correct, it will not run. Voltage regulator would be something else to check.

do you have the service manual? If not, down load it for free with the link below. Second to last manual in the list will cover your bike. I keep it on my phone with a pdf app, that way it is handy wherever I'm at. Most bikes don't break down at home.

MediaFire
 

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Swapped the new battery in after charging it, and the bike almost seemed to catch, I hear the fuel prime.
Charging a new battery? They are at about 80% off the shelf and rising for a couple of hours will take it up to max. Take the battery back to where you bought it and have them do a load test. To me it appears to be duff. Is it a gel cell battery (like the OEM one) or lead acid - hopefully not! Also buy a battery maintainer. When not riding, attach it to the bike using the usual male cig lighter end plugged into the terminal on the fairing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Charging a new battery? They are at about 80% off the shelf and rising for a couple of hours will take it up to max. Take the battery back to where you bought it and have them do a load test. To me it appears to be duff. Is it a gel cell battery (like the OEM one) or lead acid - hopefully not! Also buy a battery maintainer. When not riding, attach it to the bike using the usual male cig lighter end plugged into the terminal on the fairing.
I bought a YTX20HL-BS from our friends at Amazon. 310 cc amps. 18aH.

Which sounds like lead acid. I charged it fully overnight, charger said maintaining rather than charging next morning. I also charged the old battery to 95% put it back in after the replacement battery acted strangely and it showed the exact same behavior where it almost wants to catch, only the neutral and oil lights are on, no other electrics.

I only checked the fuses on the right side of the seat, behind the plastic cover. All of those fuses had continuity.

Where are the other fuses?
 

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There are a couple others around but not main fuses (i.e. dash outlet is in the fairing).

Did you check the headlight and tail-lights? What about the brake and turn signal lights? If you have main power and the kill switch is on, you should have all of these working. If not, it could be the key switch or something in the ignition circuit. What about aftermarket fuel controller? After these things I'd look into checking the regulator. I would hope it's not a burned out ECU, ACM or flasher module. But you can remove almost all of the fuses and relays and see if it's some other circuit that's shorting out or causing issues (primary lighting, secondary lighting, radio, dash, accessory, etc).

Do you have anything electric/electronic that's added on or aftermarket? Could look into these things. After the simple stuff like spark.

When you check the battery voltage, check on the output of the circuit breaker against chassis. I like the motor mounts or something further away from the battery. Check it with bike off, bike on, cranking.
 

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It has to be the new battery. It appears that’s all you did before problems began or were they there with the old one? Replaced a fading battery with I’m guessing a battery that’s NFG. Take the battery to a battery dealer or some decent auto shop and have it load tested. Otherwise you’ll be chasing your tail forever. Sometimes squeezing the nickel using Amazon until the Buffalo ****s is a poor choice. The few dollars you saved would have gone to a local shop owner to feed his and his employees families.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
It has to be the new battery. It appears that's all you did before problems began or were they there with the old one? Replaced a fading battery with I'm guessing a battery that's NFG. Take the battery to a battery dealer or some decent auto shop and have it load tested. Otherwise you'll be chasing your tail forever. Sometimes squeezing the nickel using Amazon until the Buffalo ****s is a poor choice. The few dollars you saved would have gone to a local shop owner to feed his and his employees families.
No, the power drops I got while riding the old battery after it went down to around 25% and I recharged it and took for a spin. Since it was a 6 year old battery, I ordered a new one. When going to replace old battery, terminals were loose, so I chalked the power drops up to the loose connections. I could have a critter that chewed through wires, too for all I know.

Oh - would have bought local except I have a couple of high risk people in my home and am severely limiting the trips outside the house. Even let the box the battery was in alone for 4 days...

I think I have reached my limit on what I can do to try and diagnose the issue. I am a tinkerer, but not so much mechanically or electrically.
 

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We all wish you well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
OK, things just got weird. Checked my insurance policy to see if they have towing, they do. Called the nearest Victory dealer, surprise - they aren't terribly busy. Pull the bike out so when I call for a tow, it is ready. For sh*ts and grins, turn kill switch on and then turn key. All the lights came on, dash is on, stereo showing AUX. So I turned the kill switch off, and it fired right up. Strong. No hesitation.

All I did was put the new battery in on Sunday after re-testing the old one, turned the key and saw the no lights situation. Went and got me a beer after that.

Yesterday was raining cats and dogs. Didn't even go into the garage.

And then this morning's PFM happened. I rode it for about 30 minutes, pull back home to get some rubber gloves as it needed gas, put the front spoiler back on the bike, and it fired right back up. Went to get gas, filled the tank, took it out for about an hour.

Runs flawlessly. Starts instantly. I just have to look up how to set the clock again.

I have no explanation.

Spontaneous Electrical Healing.
 
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