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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Just got in new wires so I thought I'd make the swap of plugs and wires. Couple of pictures for you. The old plugs tell a tale of water and gap. I tucked the long wire into the cheese wedge. It fits in along the outside--otherwise it looks like the plug wire rests about 1/4" from the front jug fins.

The gap is about 30-40% more than it's supposed to be. I gapped the new ones at 0.031".

That, and the short wire separated when I pulled it out. It wasn't in the coil very hard, so it makes me think it came apart before that.

27,500 miles on the bike.

My non-scientific seat of the pants test told me there was more grunt when I got on it.

View attachment 479705 View attachment 479713
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
yes, but I always start it afterward to cook the water off while I'm using the leaf blower on it.
You have the same rust pattern I did.
 

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just did mine at 20 thou, 35 on the front and 48 in the rear. test ride confirmed that the 6 dollars was well spent. normally average 40 mpg but the last 2 tank fulls were 38 & 36 wich warranted some action on my part so plugs and a little drygas did the trick,,, back to normal :dance:
 

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Interesting. Reminds me of talking to some Harley guys at a coffee shop one day. Asked them how often they changed their plugs. They look at each other and say...uhmmm. i don't bother. If I recall correctly from my days on suzuki c90 forum, guys were easily running 50-60,000 miles between plug changes. Is there something about design of these motors that would kill them quickly? (Aside from water!)
 

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Not sure I still have originals at 90.000 checked them last week seemed good to me !
I run regular dfuel 87 octane and ride it like i stole it with cams s+s intake pc5 and 2 into thor exaust dyno tuned!, hundreds of smiles per gallon!
 

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New plugs are always a good idea.
My spark plug change procedure:
Remove boot & break spark plug loose but don’t remove plug.
Blow compressed air into the spark well to blast any crud out so it won’t fall into the cylinder when you remove the plug.
Gap the plug, put a dab of anti seize on the plug threads & hand thread it in, then torque to spec.
Swab some dielectric grease around the inside of the plug wire boot and make sure you hear it snap back on.
Do this & the next plug change will be a breeze
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I missed the dielectric grease on the boot part so that it slides over the ceramic easier. I've used wd-40 in the past and wiped the ceramic with a rag to make it slippery.

mister-g: what's drygas?
 

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Mine were primarily from PO. I put only 5k, around town driving, but they're around 30k. I changed them because I just wanted to. Surprised as hell when I saw them. Even more surprised she was running just fine after seeing them. Never seen that before but the bike came from the NE and cruised everywhere throughout country. I generally change plugs every 15000 or 2 years. I too use thread anti seize and dielectric grease. Hopefully in the next year or so I'll be able to cruise, tour. Been a tough couple years and counting. Have a great memorial day weekend all...
 

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I missed the dielectric grease on the boot part so that it slides over the ceramic easier. I've used wd-40 in the past and wiped the ceramic with a rag to make it slippery.

mister-g: what's drygas?
gas line anti freeze. absorbs and removes any water from the fuel and system as i may have picked up some bad gas somewhere causing it to run crappy. the bad gap in my rear plug wasn't helping matters either.
 

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Dont know why people wouldn't change their spark plugs on a regular basis. They are cheap to replace and can save you pain in the long run .
 

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Well I guess im the exception to the rule!
I wear my boots till there done !I am not in the habit of changeing thing when they have not fullfilled there usefull service and are causeing jo problems!
Ive had the same wife for over 33 years she farts and burps once in a while but for the most part she still runs well enough to keep around! And remains perfectly dependable!
Ive peeked at the plugs once in a while and they appear to have good colour and hold there electrode shape well!
Its not a point of there cheep to change its simply ,why fix what aint broke!
Yesterday at the track I made 3 runs ,the first a screwup at 13.23 just under 100mph
The next 2 both at 12.47 and 12.51 nothing wrong with that for the geezer glide!
Rev limitor is set at 64 hundred and myvshift points are at around 5700 5800
No stumbling no hesitatation all good not even a misfire!
So lets see ,if I was to change at 15000 every time that would have been 6 sets of plugs right
With no noticable gain or loss except for the 10 buck or so a set !
60 bucks can buy me a barrel of beer ,you go ahead and change your plugs Im saving up for more beer!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
One thing I've noticed post changing plugs and wires.
The plug wires (Thunder-something or other) seem to affect how the bike warms up. The bike stumbles a smidge more in the idle when warming up.
Low speed turns around corners in 3rd gear are much smoother to power out of-no more chugging the motor.

And that's about as scientific as I got...
 

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One thing I've noticed post changing plugs and wires.
The plug wires (Thunder-something or other) seem to affect how the bike warms up. The bike stumbles a smidge more in the idle when warming up.
I swapped out my wires and plugs after the first 5 mile ride of the season. I am digging the thundervolt wires I bought paired with OEM plugs. No joke, my bike pulled to the speed limiter for the first time ever shortly there after. For the record, I don't recommend hitting the speed limiter. If you hit it often you should consider flashing your ECM.
ThunderVolts: Colored Spark Plug Wires - LLOYD'Z Motorworkz
 
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