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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All,

I’m in a state of panic at the moment. I haven’t ridden my cross country in about a month due to not having any time. The weather in CT today was in the low 50s and I had to run a quick errand across town so I figured why not take a quick ride and then tomorrow Ill change the oil and put it away for the winter....

Well, I went to start it and it cranked over fine but then had some unexpected some valve train noise so I instinctively shut it back off. I though about it for a minute and then decided maybe it was just cold and the oil hadn’t made it up there yet so I thought ill fire it back up and let it warm up. I cranked it back over and let it run for a few minutes and the valve noise did decrease but there was still some faint unusuall rhythmic clicking.....

After a few minutes I got on and gave it a couple throttle blips and it just died.... After that it was slow to crank over and wouldn’t stay running unless I was on the throttle. As soon as I would let go of the throttle to let it idle it would go straight dead.

At this point I gave up on the ride in fear that If I kept trying i might break something (If I haven't already)

I put it back in the garage, checked the oil, which was at a good level but looked foamy and smelled a little like gasoline.

Also the battery gauge looked fine.

I know that plenty of you guys ride these things in the winter and cold weather.....but I just got this bike this spring so I don’t know what to expect.

Tomorrow is supposed to be 56* here so I’m thinking maybe ill try again tomorrow but now I’m scared to crank it over.....

Should I be worried???? Anybody know what’s going on with it?

Thanks in advance
 

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Please know that the voltage gauge on our bikes is far from a precise instrument. I would throw your battery on a tender over night tonight. When you hook the tender up to your battery be sure to check your terminal connections with a 10mm socket or wrench. Don't just check with your fingers. You don't need them super-super tight, but definitely tight.

Tomorrow unhook the battery tender and then perform a throttle position sensor reset:
  • Key OFF, kill switch OFF
  • Turn key to ON position
  • Turn kill switch to ON position
  • With motor NOT running, slowly roll the throttle to Wide Open Throttle (WOT) over a period of 10 seconds
  • Hold at WOT for another 10 seconds
  • Snap the throttle shut
  • Turn key OFF
  • Wait at least 5 seconds
  • Turn key ON
  • Start bike
Fire that beast up by keeping your finger on the start button until it is running. Only remove your finger from the start button once the bike is running This is very important if your bike has been sitting...a backfire at the wrong moment has the potential of ruining your starter. Let the bike warm up
for 5 minutes before you take off, assuming it will idle properly now.

Always start your bike off of the side stand while sitting on it. Once it has idled for a good 30 seconds or so feel free to let it complete the warm up process on the side stand. Go easy for 5 maybe 10 minutes and then let it rip. Don't be scarred and be sure you hit at least 4500 RPM a few times.
 

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If that battery is 3-4 yrs old and you haven't ridden it for a long time, the battery is likely depleted beyond redemption. Buy a new one - in the spring.

I had this noise in the summer of 2016:


Engine was removed and all looked good and clean inside. Everything within tolerance. The tech replaced all 6 "lifters" under extended warranty and this was the result. He could not determine which one was duff as they all looked alike:

 

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Sounds like a low battery AND fouled spark plugs. You can't start and stop these bikes without going for a ride and getting them hot or the plugs foul.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi all, I just wanted to follow up to thank Known1 for his input, as well as to help anyone who may come upon this searching due to their own similar issues.

The next day I followed Known1 ‘s directions to a T, with the exception that I took the battery out of the bike and slow charged it over night. In the morning I set up an electric space heater with the blower pointed directly at the engine case for 5 hours or so to try and warm up the case/oil. I followed the directions he gave me and the bike started up quickly with a second or two of knockyness (is that a word?) and then quieted right down. I didn’t touch the throttle at all for about 6-7 minutes and then headed out on a ride. The bike ran, shifted and idled as normal, and I had a nice 1 hour or so ride that was about 45 miles.

When I got back I drained the oil straight away while it was hot, and let it drain for a solid hour and a half, changed the filter and gave her new oil. Now its put away for the winter until the weather warms back up and I can sleep soundly knowing all is well with the world.

In the spring I plan to throw in new spark plugs, and that’s about it. A HUGE thank you to Known1 for his advice. You saved me several more sleepless nights...
 

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Hi all, I just wanted to follow up to thank Known1 for his input, as well as to help anyone who may come upon this searching due to their own similar issues.

The next day I followed Known1 's directions to a T, with the exception that I took the battery out of the bike and slow charged it over night. In the morning I set up an electric space heater with the blower pointed directly at the engine case for 5 hours or so to try and warm up the case/oil. I followed the directions he gave me and the bike started up quickly with a second or two of knockyness (is that a word?) and then quieted right down. I didn't touch the throttle at all for about 6-7 minutes and then headed out on a ride. The bike ran, shifted and idled as normal, and I had a nice 1 hour or so ride that was about 45 miles.

When I got back I drained the oil straight away while it was hot, and let it drain for a solid hour and a half, changed the filter and gave her new oil. Now its put away for the winter until the weather warms back up and I can sleep soundly knowing all is well with the world.

In the spring I plan to throw in new spark plugs, and that's about it. A HUGE thank you to Known1 for his advice. You saved me several more sleepless nights...
Aw just an additional note as I had an issue for an ECM reset. It corrected the issue.

But, had an issue a few months ago and it was a weak battery causing some rough running and just FYI for the future if all of sudden she starts misbehaving...
 

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Hi all, I just wanted to follow up to thank Known1 for his input, as well as to help anyone who may come upon this searching due to their own similar issues.

The next day I followed Known1 's directions to a T, with the exception that I took the battery out of the bike and slow charged it over night. In the morning I set up an electric space heater with the blower pointed directly at the engine case for 5 hours or so to try and warm up the case/oil. I followed the directions he gave me and the bike started up quickly with a second or two of knockyness (is that a word?) and then quieted right down. I didn't touch the throttle at all for about 6-7 minutes and then headed out on a ride. The bike ran, shifted and idled as normal, and I had a nice 1 hour or so ride that was about 45 miles.

When I got back I drained the oil straight away while it was hot, and let it drain for a solid hour and a half, changed the filter and gave her new oil. Now its put away for the winter until the weather warms back up and I can sleep soundly knowing all is well with the world.

In the spring I plan to throw in new spark plugs, and that's about it. A HUGE thank you to Known1 for his advice. You saved me several more sleepless nights...
Glad to hear it and happy to help out. Thanks for taking the time to follow up. It stinks when we give advice and never hear a peep one way or the other...

Merry Christmas!
 

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Just to help a little.....I haven't been able to ride my Vision for over a month. It is on a trickle charger all the time. I started it the other day and let it run a bit, ran like a champ!. Other than making sure one keeps cranking until it starts once it starts it is ready to go. The reason to keep cranking is to avoid breaking the starter sprag gear as the engine can (and will) reverse when if you stop cranking it just enough to break the gear. Bottom line, ALWAYS CHECK THE BATTERY FIRST. These bikes are very finicky and keep cranking! Glad you got it sorted. LMYR
 

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Just to help a little.....I haven't been able to ride my Vision for over a month. It is on a trickle charger all the time. I started it the other day and let it run a bit, ran like a champ!. Other than making sure one keeps cranking until it starts once it starts it is ready to go. The reason to keep cranking is to avoid breaking the starter sprag gear as the engine can (and will) reverse when if you stop cranking it just enough to break the gear. Bottom line, ALWAYS CHECK THE BATTERY FIRST. These bikes are very finicky and keep cranking! Glad you got it sorted. LMYR
Don't do this, this is what Fouls the Plugs and gets your oil/crankcase full of water from condensation. Unless you're going for a long ride and getting the motor HOT don't start it!
Every spring the forums are full of guys that bikes won't start because they kept firing it up over the winter. They all have fouled plugs and condensation in the crankcase.
 
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Don't do this, this is what Fouls the Plugs and gets your oil/crankcase full of water from condensation. Unless you're going for a long ride and getting the motor HOT don't start it!
Every spring the forums are full of guys that bikes won't start because they kept firing it up over the winter. They all have fouled plugs and condensation in the crankcase.
I'll send you a PM IF it EVER happens ok? You are assuming that I (or everyone else) live in an area where humidity could penitentialy causes such issues. I do not now (but have in the past lived in high humidify areas) and have NEVER had an issue with ANY of my gasoline operated vehicles or machinery. Odd no? Go ahead, don't put a battery tender on your bike ( I've had one sine new on my 13 and `7 and both sill have the original batteries - whoa eh?) because , well, batteries are cheap. Don;t EVER start it and let it come up operating temperature because well, engines and batteries are cheap...right. I will PM but don't hold your breath (You know it's coming - I've been doing this longer than you've been alive ) ;-) LMYR
 
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I'll send you a PM IF it EVER happens ok? You are assuming that I (or everyone else) live in an area where humidity could penitentialy causes such issues. I do not now (but have in the past lived in high humidify areas) and have NEVER had an issue with ANY of my gasoline operated vehicles or machinery. Odd no? Go ahead, don't put a battery tender on your bike ( I've had one sine new on my 13 and `7 and both sill have the original batteries - whoa eh?) because , well, batteries are cheap. Don;t EVER start it and let it come up operating temperature because well, engines and batteries are cheap...right. I will PM but don't hold your breath (You know it's coming - I've been doing this longer than you've been alive ) ;-) LMYR
This is why some of us don't help people as much as we used to! Who said anything about the battery??? I always keep mine on a tender. Who said anything about where you live, has Nothing to do with it. These Vic's are programmed to run rich for like the first 15 minutes, if you don't ride it after startup to get it good and HOT then the plugs stay WET. A few cycles of that, then the bike won't start because the plugs are fouled.
Just trying to help your arrogant arse.
 
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I just wanna know what oil OP put in that bike.
Noisy start ups and me thinks it’s not up to par with Slicks list of quality lubricants.
 
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This is why some of us don't help people as much as we used to! Who said anything about the battery??? I always keep mine on a tender. Who said anything about where you live, has Nothing to do with it. These Vic's are programmed to run rich for like the first 15 minutes, if you don't ride it after startup to get it good and HOT then the plugs stay WET. A few cycles of that, then the bike won't start because the plugs are fouled.
Just trying to help your arrogant arse.
What you didn't include and this was directly from a Victory Dealer, that had to deal with customer bikes. The ones that weren't allowed to do as you said, several other issues with piston scuffing. Same recommendation as to run it for a distance to warm-up.

I agree with the warm-up and aircraft engines recommendations echo your post, for the same reasons. Not sure a plug would foul on a Victory, but your rich situation at start up is dead on for a Continental and Lycoming...

Don't really recall humidity really playing a factor as to the chemicals produced from the combustion process. But wouldn't help and would be more of a rusting and corrosion issue, within the cylinders, cams and other points of friction. When not brought to temp (200 degs) to burn off said chemicals that aid in corrosion.

I post for advice, some good and some bad, but most educational and more often than not, appreciated.

Keep posting...
 

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I just wanna know what oil OP put in that bike.
Noisy start ups and me thinks it's not up to par with Slicks list of quality lubricants.
Oh no, I use camel piss due to how dry and dehydrated it is from the desert winds....

Please ole Earl of Slickness, share, as my stockpile of Victory Oil is getting lean and I must move on and you have switched every now and then.

What is in your crankcase, right now? :bandit::fie:
 

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Oh no, I use camel piss due to how dry and dehydrated it is from the desert winds....

Please ole Earl of Slickness, share, as my stockpile of Victory Oil is getting lean and I must move on and you have switched every now and then. What is in your crankcase?
 

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What you didn't include and this was directly from a Victory Dealer, that had to deal with customer bikes. The ones that weren't allowed to do as you said, several other issues with piston scuffing. Same recommendation as to run it for a distance to warm-up.

I agree with the warm-up and aircraft engines recommendations echo your post, for the same reasons. Not sure a plug would foul on a Victory, but your rich situation at start up is dead on for a Continental and Lycoming...

Don't really recall humidity really playing a factor as to the chemicals produced from the combustion process. But wouldn't help and would be more of a rusting and corrosion issue, within the cylinders, cams and other points of friction. When not brought to temp (200 degs) to burn off said chemicals that aid in corrosion.

I post for advice, some good and some bad, but most educational and more often than not, appreciated.

Keep posting...
Really not suggesting "start" arbitrarily and shut down. Only suggesting A. Put your bike on a tender if you can't ride it regularly. Guarantee it's sound advice evidenced by hundreds of other riders here and in other forums that use the same battery for 8-10 years. 2. I only indicated the fact I started mine to show the tender and the process of continuing to crank is again sound advice evidenced by several entries for broken sprag gears and how to avoid. C. I use pure gas not corn sweetened fuel in my bikes reducing significantly the possibility or ANY water (have NEVER had any in any of my crankcases) but be informed the higher the humidity the greater the chance of water.....Again, I only said I started mine after setting for a month. Should of rode it but that was NOT THE POINT. The point is put the battery on a tender and IF you have trouble starting be aware the results of not keeping cranking can be a broken sprag gear. If it happens, search here on how to fix or hey, PM me I have a very good process and (sadly)) experience. The rest of you can well, fagitaboutit ;-) Long may you ride!
 

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Really not suggesting "start" arbitrarily and shut down. Only suggesting A. Put your bike on a tender if you can't ride it regularly. Guarantee it's sound advice evidenced by hundreds of other riders here and in other forums that use the same battery for 8-10 years. 2. I only indicated the fact I started mine to show the tender and the process of continuing to crank is again sound advice evidenced by several entries for broken sprag gears and how to avoid. C. I use pure gas not corn sweetened fuel in my bikes reducing significantly the possibility or ANY water (have NEVER had any in any of my crankcases) but be informed the higher the humidity the greater the chance of water.....Again, I only said I started mine after setting for a month. Should of rode it but that was NOT THE POINT. The point is put the battery on a tender and IF you have trouble starting be aware the results of not keeping cranking can be a broken sprag gear. If it happens, search here on how to fix or hey, PM me I have a very good process and (sadly)) experience. The rest of you can well, fagitaboutit ;-) Long may you ride!
Appears we have more in common than not and by that I mean many. That said, I can't really say anything about your post, other than "we" are just worried about the Victory's well-being.

Pure gas, reminds me it is cocktail time and the only real use I have for Corn Squeezings, over ice...

It is raining, but the Vic waits patiently, getting juice from the tender... Never thought about the "sprag gears", but take your word for it as it makes sense.
 

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Appears we have more in common than not and by that I mean many. That said, I can't really say anything about your post, other than "we" are just worried about the Victory's well-being.

Pure gas, reminds me it is cocktail time and the only real use I have for Corn Squeezings, over ice...

It is raining, but the Vic waits patiently, getting juice from the tender... Never thought about the "sprag gears", but take your word for it as it makes sense.
Yes the sprag starter clutch is famous for grenading if you don't hold the starter button down until it's running. When you let off and the motor KICKS BACK it takes out the sprag clutch. Especially if you bump the starter button again as it's kicking back. Hold that starter down til it's running smoothly. If it doesn't start, let off of the button and don't touch it again until the engine stops moving.
 
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Really not suggesting "start" arbitrarily and shut down. Only suggesting A. Put your bike on a tender if you can't ride it regularly. Guarantee it's sound advice evidenced by hundreds of other riders here and in other forums that use the same battery for 8-10 years. 2. I only indicated the fact I started mine to show the tender and the process of continuing to crank is again sound advice evidenced by several entries for broken sprag gears and how to avoid. C. I use pure gas not corn sweetened fuel in my bikes reducing significantly the possibility or ANY water (have NEVER had any in any of my crankcases) but be informed the higher the humidity the greater the chance of water.....Again, I only said I started mine after setting for a month. Should of rode it but that was NOT THE POINT. The point is put the battery on a tender and IF you have trouble starting be aware the results of not keeping cranking can be a broken sprag gear. If it happens, search here on how to fix or hey, PM me I have a very good process and (sadly)) experience. The rest of you can well, fagitaboutit ;-) Long may you ride!
We're in total agreement, it's just that your skin is real thin. I was pointing out to people to not start and stop a Vic as I see a lot of problems from just that, get over it.
 
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