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50 weight is not the right viscosity. All of the large engine Victorys specify 20W40. There are plenty of 40 weight oils available with the right JASO MA rating for a wet clutch.
 

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anyone see any issues running it in my vision klotz is pricey plus don't want to go to the dealer before leaving for Sturgis friday
You have to look at the ratings to be sure. JASO MA is generally what I look for but there are other compatible ratings and Japan has their own.

The 20/50 in pure synthetic is just fine because the molecules are both smaller and uniform in size. In fact it's recommended to go with the 20/50 in pure synth. Semi-Synth needs to be 20/40 or 10/40.

Castrol is a good oil. I didn't used to care for Pennzoil but they have improved their oils. The Ultra Platinum pure synth is a now a top rated oil.

Some, like Mobil 1, have a 15k oil. I think I would be a bit leery about running any oil that many miles simply because our air cooled motorcycle engines tend to put more carbon in the oil over time than the water-cooled bike and car engines. I might consider going 10k in a car but would probably keep it at 5k in any air-cooled bike. That's just me though. Everyone has to do what they think is right.

They even have 10k oil filters now. Maybe even 15k. Again; I would be leery about doing that in an air-cooled bike. A newer finely tuned quality car engine that doesn't deposit a lot of carbon into the oil might do just fine though.

It would be tempting to use a 15k oil and filter and not have to think about oil changes for a good while.
 

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Isn't the klotz oil for the victory a 20/50
The newer spec that Victory says is okay is 20W/50, but original spec is 20W/40. These engines run plenty of oil pressure and it's hot as hell, you'll be fine with the 20W/50. Probably better off, to be honest.
 
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I used Bel - Ray last time and man what difference in the clutch grabbing been having a problem with my clutch slipping with my wife on the back been trying all different kinds Bel Ray took care of the problem 35 dollars for a gallon jug.
 

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I did a little research on full synthetic oil and found that Amsoil was the top rated contender for V-twins. As it turned out, Amsoil actually developed a 20W-40 specifically for Victory and Indian motorcycles (they put it right there on the label). No issues and the clutch performance is outstanding. My question is this: Is it safe to go beyond 5k before an oil change? 7k or 8k even?
 

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I did a little research on full synthetic oil and found that Amsoil was the top rated contender for V-twins. As it turned out, Amsoil actually developed a 20W-40 specifically for Victory and Indian motorcycles (they put it right there on the label). No issues and the clutch performance is outstanding. My question is this: Is it safe to go beyond 5k before an oil change? 7k or 8k even?
Not really. Our Vic's run a bit rich anyway so carbon does build up in the oil. It will only hold x amount in suspension before it loses its lubricating value.

Both mine tell it's time when the shifting gets harder to do.
 

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Name brand, wet clutch compatible, BAM good to go.
 

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I did a little research on full synthetic oil and found that Amsoil was the top rated contender for V-twins. As it turned out, Amsoil actually developed a 20W-40 specifically for Victory and Indian motorcycles (they put it right there on the label). No issues and the clutch performance is outstanding. My question is this: Is it safe to go beyond 5k before an oil change? 7k or 8k even?
I wouldn't because I prefer to change mine just past the OEM change interval. But I have seen oil analysis done by guys on this forum of Amsoil at 10k and it was still good. But your bike, you decide.
 

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anyone see any issues running it in my vision klotz is pricey plus don't want to go to the dealer before leaving for Sturgis friday
This has been debated on here quite a bit, but it's been confirmed that Polaris states you can run up to 15w60 in their Freedom 106. It was believed this was only for the octane water cooled, until it showed up in the freedom 106 manuals and on their website. So you should have zero issues running a 50 weight. I've ran Amsoils 20w40 and their 20w50 synthetic with zero issues.
 

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I think the biggest difference between Vic's and most other v-twins when it comes to how long between oil changes isn't that they run 'dirty' it's because the engine oil is also the transmission oil. The threshing our oil takes from gear engagement contact is what wears it out so fast. I don't think I'd go much beyond 5K miles before changing personally regardless of the type of oil. Standard dino oil or semi's get change out around 3K on mine... it's the benefit and the downside of having just one oil for the whole system.
 

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I did a little research on full synthetic oil and found that Amsoil was the top rated contender for V-twins. As it turned out, Amsoil actually developed a 20W-40 specifically for Victory and Indian motorcycles (they put it right there on the label). No issues and the clutch performance is outstanding. My question is this: Is it safe to go beyond 5k before an oil change? 7k or 8k even?
I said **** it, put 20/40 amsoil in, ~500 miles later it's black as bloody ****!!!!
I ended up having to replace my clutch, so changed my oil to that Quicksilver ****...
It's survived over 2000 miles so far...

It was hot, and did have lots stop and go, so 20/40 prob wasn't the best amsoil for me to use, maybe if I went 20/50, it would have been better...
But I'll tell you this, full synthetic, my startup piston slap takes about 20 seconds to go away...
 

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I've been running 20w50 in my victory for a few years on and off .

The one thing I will no lower do after alot of detailed research is use 5w or 10w only 20w40 or 20w50 for me . . what I didn't know before is the first number is MORE than just the winter weight and how it flows in colder temps.. it's the actual visocity of the oil at start up (before the temps activate or initiate) the visocity improvers. . So just as we are worried about w40 vs w50 one should also equally be concerned with the visocity on start up , when most wear happens in the first place. . I can't believe on my other vision I used 5w40 and wondered my shift felt notchy. ... God I used oil with a start I'm visocity 75% less than what the manufacturer calls for
 

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The newer spec that Victory says is okay is 20W/50, but original spec is 20W/40. These engines run plenty of oil pressure and it's hot as hell, you'll be fine with the 20W/50. Probably better off, to be honest.
I did a little research on full synthetic oil and found that Amsoil was the top rated contender for V-twins. As it turned out, Amsoil actually developed a 20W-40 specifically for Victory and Indian motorcycles (they put it right there on the label). No issues and the clutch performance is outstanding. My question is this: Is it safe to go beyond 5k before an oil change? 7k or 8k even?
On my little 5,690 mile trip to West Texas I did an oil change the day before I left. I went with Amsoil 20w50 synthetic for metric cruisers (JASO MA/MA2) and Amsoil oil filter (EAOM103). About halfway thru the trip I did a filter change and topped off the little bit of oil I lost. The bike was flawless the entire way there and back.

Once home I ordered up some of the Amsoil 20w40 for Victory Motorcycles and got a NAPA Gold 1358 filter. In the three days it took to get the oil I got the mileage up to 6,178 before changing the oil and filter. The last one - two hundred miles or so is when the shifting started to get notchy.

While they say you could go to 10k or more I prefer to stick to the 5K oil change intervals with a filter change about halfway. Using a quality premium filter I would not worry about pushing that out to 6k if I had to. Past that,.. no way.
 

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Name brand, wet clutch compatible, BAM good to go.
I would add at least using a semi-synth and change the oil when it's time. It's different for both mine and not just by the recommend intervals. I can feel it in how it shifts. It gets kinda 'notchy' when it's time to change the oil. Why; I have no idea but it does.

Like you; I've been using Rotella for years. Even mixing my own regular and synth. I'm always open to a better quality oil though. It does make a difference in the longevity of the engine IMHO as long as the oil is changed when it's supposed to. Those tiny oil passages to pump up the hydraulic lifters need good clean oil.
 

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My uncle with his old Galaxy 500 that ran 300,000 miles on Quaker State oil in the 70's. The car ran until the frame broke in half from rust. Quaker State, shows that regular changes far outweigh brand.
 
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