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Wondered if anyone is running Conquest Customs carbon ceramic rotors? If so how do you like them? How do they hold up? Next question, who if anyone makes performance calipers for Victory? Brembo? Wilwood? Etc...
 

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My 07 KP Tour came with Brembo brakes so I would bet they're available.
 

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Wondered if anyone is running Conquest Customs carbon ceramic rotors? If so how do you like them? How do they hold up? Next question, who if anyone makes performance calipers for Victory? Brembo? Wilwood? Etc...
Apperently if you run Carbon with Lyndall Z pads then the breaking power improvement is superb

Maybe Lyndall is making the carbon rotors?
 

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Lone Rider of the Apocolypse
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I have heard good things about the Lyndall carbon setup. I believe this is what @PJRo is using and he seems very happy with them. I was considering those as well, but my machine is not even close to Peter's bike, so I doubt I will require such an upgrade. I feel like the brakes on the Vision are quite good, so as long as I keep them up to snuff that should do me. They still work well, even at 35,000 miles and counting. Very impressive!
 
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and just an fyi ... our ceramic brakes WILL outperform the lyndalls
And now the 64 THOUSAND DOLLAR question... do you guys have parts for the Vision? It seems Lyndall only carries the front pads for the Vision - no rear pads or rotors that I could find. Very frustrating!
 

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we have front and rear pads for visions in stock always .. and they are lyndall pads. kinda odd they dont have the rears ... vision's use the same rear pads as any other 08 and up, only the front pads are different. we have the red, gold and extreme pads in stock.

as far as the ceramic operating cold, its like with any other performance rotor and pad combo .. you have to get some heat built up for maximum performace. but even cold, they still stop great.

you can always call scott at the shop (561-715-9494) and talk to him about them, he has a lot more seat time on those rotors than i do
 

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I have Conquest Customs ceramic rotors on my Kingpin. And I’m very pleased. I was attracted to them for weight reduction, if you’re not familiar with the difference between sprung and unsprung, not to mention rotational weight, everything below the shock and spinning has a significantly greater impact on the bikes handling than weight changes above the shock. So at 1/3 the weight I was interested and I CAN notice the difference in handling. Flicking my bike left and right into sweepers and S curves it feels like a lighter, more nimble bike.
Now to the braking performance. They’re fine. They are different. The first time you pull your front brake after installing these your first thought will be “squishy, do they need bled?”. But the next thing I did for lack of a better phrase is I gave them a break in procedure. I rode fast and hit the brakes hard. Then I did it again and again and again. To the point that my old brakes would have been damn hot and showing signs of fade, these just got better and better with each pull. The hotter they get, the better they perform. So after this seating or brake in or whatever you want to call it the feel now isn’t far from any other brake. With cold brakes where you may have previously pulled the lever back 4 mm to get 30% braking power, now I might pull 5 mm. I can definitely lock the brakes up, can definitely stop it just as short. Probably can stop it shorter now as the feel is more progressive and I can reach that point just prior to lock up without locking up easier.
So I would conclude that there is a difference in feel, at least initially. Performance is at a minimum equal to, likely a little better than stock when cold, and if you’re riding aggressively on twisty roads braking performance is better by a country mile. Which will be put to use as the handling improvements means you’re riding even more aggressively than before.
 

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@Wuzupez .... here is a pic of mine ....

Peter
 

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Peter, you have the ceramic on the rear too? Wouldn't this lock up your rear tire even more easily ¿

Wouldn't it make more sense to have 2 ceramic on the front and just a lyndall gold on the rear?
I find with a more progressive feel to the ceramic it's just the opposite. Steel rotors have a harder nitial grab, then the difference between nearly locked up and locked up was harder to modulate. The ceramics require a little more effort at the handle/peg but I can more easily tell when they're about to lock up. I unintentially locked my rear and had to back off with the stock rotor, I have since rode harder but have never accidently locked up the ceramic. Intentionally yes but that's different.
 

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I find with a more progressive feel to the ceramic it's just the opposite. Steel rotors have a harder nitial grab, then the difference between nearly locked up and locked up was harder to modulate. The ceramics require a little more effort at the handle/peg but I can more easily tell when they're about to lock up. I unintentially locked my rear and had to back off with the stock rotor, I have since rode harder but have never accidently locked up the ceramic. Intentionally yes but that's different.
Very interesting information, never thought about it that way... On my Jackpot it was just too easy to lock up my rear, so front I run lyndall gold and rear EBC HH, and I changed the angel of the foot lever, this was the key of no more locking up my rear....

I like your thinking @iabob so rear ceramic too, good info right there
 

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The way I see it there are only 3 choices to have better brakes.... It seems (i read) ceramic has 30% more stopping power, I ask this question because I upgraded from a single disk Jackpot to a 2017 double disk Hammer-S front USD forks & black 18" rims & 160/60 tire .... So yes I like to know .... I already learned that ceramic on the rear locks-up less then the original rotors.... I am liking this information, also I don't do long with brake-pads on the Stock rotors .....

When I did EBC on the front I did a total of 15.000 Km on the EBC brake pads, and they were finished.... Now I have Lindall on the front and EBC on the rear

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Option 1
Lyndall composite rotors 325 per rotor
Xtreme Performance 75 per set

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Option 2
Conquest customs AMS Rotors 599 per rotor
with Red-Plus break pads 79 per set

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Option 3
Arlen Ness 15″ Big Brake Rotors 600 per 2 rotor & 2 bracket
Lyndall gold plus pads 64 per set
 

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Option 4
Galfer wave rotor $275
So is the best stopping power choice for "galfer" as per below? Or is there a better choice that you know off?

280mm Tsunami® Oversize Wave® Rotor (Off-Road)
  • 280mm solid mount rotor
  • Kit includes 6061-T6 Aluminum relocating bracket
  • Designed for track use
  • Best friction surface of any stainless steel rotor
  • Seamlessly replaces stock rotor
  • Provides strong initial bite and aggressive braking throughout the power curve
  • Tsunami® Wave® pattern is an active cooling system keeping rotor temperatures low even on the most demanding tracks
  • Drastically increases lever feel / modulation and brake torque
  • Sintered 1396 HH Ceramic pads are recommended for best performance (available separately)
 
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