[Cayoot]

I went out to start my 2016 CCT (10, 200 miles-200 miles on fresh oil change) and the oil came on and won't go out. This has not happened before. Nothing has changed since yesterday that I know of.
I checked the oil, level is right. I use the Victory oil change kit, so exactly 4 1/2 quarts is in it like always. The oil level was right on the "Full" line. I thought maybe it just needs to run a few minutes to build up pressure, so I took it out for a mile. Everything seemed normal, but that dang oil light is staying bright. I don't know what to do. I've owned it 1 year as of the 26th of this month. I don't want to go through hassle of getting someone to follow me an hour north so I can get a ride home while leaving it at the dealer for a week. I'd like an idea of what's wrong first. Is it normal for the oil pump to go out on these? I REALLY need some advice guys. Thanks in advance.

 

[vision_nut]

View attachment 493943 might be a dab of water or dirt on the connection. When kickstand is straight up look back passed it toward the end of it. That's where the sending unit is. Pull wire clean contact and the tip of the unit. This is what it looks like

 

[Cayoot]

Thanks Vision Nut, I saw that item and wondered what it was. Does that cap just pull straight off?

 

[Cayoot]

Well, I got the cap off. I'm surprised that it just slides on/off like that. Maybe it's so that water will drain out. Anyways, pole and socket looked a bit dusty. I took some cotton swabs, a pipe cleaner, and some rubbing alcohol and cleaned them up well, but no change. The oil light stays on steady while running. Thank you, Vision-Nut for the suggestion, but do you have any other advice? Anyone?

 

[Cayoot]

Is there a way to test the sensor?

 

[Dan050]

I think I would take that sensor out and find a way to rig up a pressure gauge just to make sure you have oil pressure.

 

[Cayoot]

Thanks Dan050. If I can't find anything better, I may have to try that tomorrow.

 

[Dan050]

It may be a challenge to find something to match those threads, but that's the first thing that came to mind. I've done it before on auto's, but not a bike.
Hope it's something simple.

 

[Cayoot]

Hope it's something simple.

Thanks Dan, me too. I've got a trip planned this month, and another next month. I'm glad this happened now, but I sure hope it's nothing big.

 

[Cruzie27]

Make sure the wire is not pinched in the frame anywhere. When I reinstalled the engine in my Gunner I pinched that wire, causing it to ground out. (Kept my LO OIL warning on)

More than likely you will have good pressure in the oil system,. It is almost always a dirty connector, grounded out wire, or occasionally the sensor.

 

[Cayoot]

Thank you Cruzie27, I did follow the wire from the sensor up to the area under the side cover. Probably 12-16 inches. At the glance, I thought the wire led into a little box there. Am I wrong? Does the wire go up under the seat or somewhere else outside of the side cover area? I have had the seat and gas tank off since last riding it, to install a pair of Wolo Bad Boys. Does the sensor wire go up under the seat/tank area?

 

[Cayoot]

Vision-Nut, Dan, and Cruzie; thank you guys so much for your direction! You guys showed me what the pressure unit looked like and where it is, as well as giving me things to look for. I went out this morning and traced the wire from the pressure sensor up to a plate that I installed to mount one of my two new Wolo Bad Boys on. Sure enough, I had inadvertently pinched and CUT the power wire. I didn't even realize I had caught it with the plate! Long story short, I repaired and repositioned the wire, and now everything is good again! The oil light goes out almost instantly after the engine starts. Thanks much guys! I really enjoy learning and working on this bike! I also am thankful for this great forum!
Now I'm off for a nice, long ride!

 

[Trout]

If you ever want to test the oil pressure switch use a volt ohm meter.
Pull the wire off the switch.
Set test meter to Ohms setting.
Connect one lead from the tester to the sensor.
Connect the other lead to ground (any metal on bike).
With engine off there should not be a reading on the meter. (Switch is open)
With engine running the meter should show a reading. (Switch is closed) If the switch is good.

To test the wire going to the switch:
Switch meter to volts.
Connect red lead to wire
Connect black lead to ground.
Ignition switch off there should be no voltage.
Ignition switch on should show around 12 volts.

 

[broggyr]

Dang man. Good find. Glad you got it resolved.

 

[md2420]

Whenever anything “new” happens, it’s usually directly related to the last thing you changed.

When did you put the horns on?

 

[vision_nut]

Cayoot
Glad
you found the bad spot.

 

[Cayoot]

Whenever anything "new" happens, it's usually directly related to the last thing you changed.
When did you put the horns on?

Of course you're absolutely right md2420. I had installed the horns just 2 days earlier, and hadn't ridden it since. The install "seemed" to go so easily, that it never crossed my mind that it might have been the culprit. Of course, I should always remember that Murphy's Law rules! I'm just really thankful that it was nothing wrong in the bike, just the loose nut behind the handlebars!

 

[Cayoot]

Trout, thank you for the great info. I'm printing your post out, and I'm going to affix it to the inside cover of my operators' manual.