[bseely01]

07 Vegas w/100 freedom. 22,000 miles. Pulled the exhaust off to have it refinished. Figured I'd take a peak at the valves I. The cylinders. The fronts and backs look a little different. Not sure what to make of the different coloring between the 4 valves. All white shafts, rear cylinder. Half white/half black, front cylinder. Thoughts?

 

[vision_nut]

send photos to Rylan and ask him. Tell him year and model
[email protected]

 

[bseely01]

Thanks bud

 

[tree1979]

Looks like one set is sitting further down into the cylinder. Probably the same.

 

[bseely01]

Oh that's a valid point. You can see the saucer of the 'all white' ones because they are up a bit higher, where as the tri colored ones in the front head may be farther down.

 

[tree1979]

Oh that's a valid point. You can see the saucer of the 'all white' ones because they are up a bit higher, where as the tri colored ones in the front head may be farther down.

Yeah. They won't always be at the same position based on the timing. If you rotate the engine you should get them both into the closed position. Just bump the starter.

 

[bseely01]

Yeah I wasn't even thinking about that. I've been so focused on getting the bike right before taking it to the dyno, I panicked when I seen the valves like that. Appreciate the feedback. Puts my mind at ease

 

[Half_Crazy]

If I had to guess... I'd say that motor was run really lean for a long time. That ain't good.

 

[bseely01]

Hopefully it had nothing to do with running with a leaky throttle body adapter for 5-6000 miles . Hopefully it's the kind of lean that came from the factory, ran around 16000 miles lol

 

[Half_Crazy]

What are the odds those crispy valves still seal tightly?

 

[bseely01]

You win. I'm paranoid. Hopefully this pressure test will have answers. Maybe I should run some Mystery oil or some magical sea foam to restore the valves to NEW!!!

 

[tree1979]

What mods have been made and when? Where are you located?

 

[bseely01]

Bought bike with 11,000 miles with flash,stage 1 air cleaner, and 2:2 pipes (no baffles basically straight pipes). Added SS air box and pcm-III when bike hit around 16,000. Dyno tuned. Bike fell out of tune, but couldn't figure out why. Retuned. Fell out again. Discovered the TB adapter rotted. Replaced and cleaned TB, replaced most rubber essentials per Half_Crazy. (TB plugs, gaskets, fuel line, etc) only thing I haven't changed is fuel filter. If fuel pressure and engine compression test checks out, I'll dyno and replace filter right after. I'm
Located 30 minutes North of Detroit, MI.

 

[bseely01]

My intake valves look pretty dang healthy though. At least from the intake side lol

 

[tree1979]

Intake valves don't have hit gases passing by them like the exhaust

 

[bseely01]

Ok then. Question. The plunger that's facing the cylinder, which is exposed to the actual a/f ratio and the combustion, could look very different than the stem of these valves since the stems just endure blow-by and the heat of the motor. Will this affect compression since the plunger metal may be in different condition? Am I making sense/on the right track?

 

[tree1979]

Yes, they can look different. But HC's point is that the valves you showed for the exhaust side look like they have been subjected to a very lean condition (low fuel, very hot) that may have damaged the valves. It is likely the valves are not seating properly in the closed position, which will result in loss of compression and power. Its likely you may need new exhaust valves. I haven't been inside these engines enough to know a clean exhaust valve from a bad exhaust valve, so I'll leave that comparison to those more in the know.

 

[bseely01]

Yeah it makes a lot of sense. I'm gonna run. Cold compression test first. Then follow up with a cold-wet. Then probably a warm, then warm-wet. Compare results.

 

[bseely01]

Ran compression test/warm (not wet). 215psi in the rear cylinder and 220psi in the front. Fuel pressure 51psi. Throttle body squeaky clean and most rubber parts under tank replaced. 0 vacuum leaks (that I know of). Tuning machine on Monday.

 

[bseely01]

Tuned bike. Learned a little bit about the dyno world and how HP numbers are figured. Algebra...and the formula is always subject to change. Tuned bike last year with vacuum leaks at TB adapter, missing TB caps, filthy (never cleaned since birth) TB, leaking battery, new plugs but old wires, and re-used exhaust gaskets (tech told me it was ok to ru-use, found out he's wrong). Made 96hp 105ftlb.

Replaced TB adapter, replaced vacuum caps, cleaned TB, new battery, new plugs, new Taylor 8mm, new exhaust gaskets. Yesterday's numbers fresh off dyno - 89hp 96ftlb.

I couldn't help but wonder - what the actual F*ck?!

My tuner, who basically had a masters in making sh!t go fast, broke it down for me. It's got to do with the Correction Factor used with the new software updated into the Power Commander software - SAE 1.02. You can see it at the bottom of my new Dyno sheet. I'm not gonna even bother to explain it, because I myself don't fully understand. But, in a nutshell, it's a new formula used to figure HP. Last years Correction Factor was STD something something something. That Correction Factor boasts greater numbers. One can only help but wonder the amount of grand hussleing going on with the ability to manipulate Hp numbers to appease a customer. Dirty.

But at the end of the day, I rode my machine and she's never felt so smooth and powerful. Took my a$$ from the seat to the rear fender on the entrance ramp. Have the absence of dust to prove it haha. Fuel curve is on point and I couldn't be happier with the tune. Rant over