I have been chasing down some vibrations that are worse in my handle bars than anywhere else. After wiggling the bars around a bit and trying to tighten them in the triple tree, I decided that the bushing might be worn out. I went to my local dealer to inquire about getting some more bushings and while I was there checked the handle bars on new bikes and mine are definitely way loose. The dealer said that the bushing were impossible to take out and that I would have to buy a new triple tree if I wanted to get new bushings. He did have some rubber rings that he said would tighten everything up nicely. So, I went home and took the handle bars off and found that the bolt that holds the handle bars on is extremely rusted (see pic). From what I can tell, the inside of the bushing looks ok after I cleaned it out. So, what are my options here? Can I just replace the bolt, or do I have to get new bars? I'm a little concerned that these are rusted enough to break and they are very loose inside the bushings. I also managed to scratch my front fender really bad while I was playing with the bars but that is another story. Oh, this is an 05 Vegas with Ness Fly bars.
Last update on July 7 2012, 2:15 pm by UnfixedPyle.
- July 7, 2012 2:14 pm
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UnfixedPyle,
Looks like its a 12 mm x 70 stud. could use a good penetrating oil like pb blaster let it sit and thread 2 nuts on and back it out and find see if you can find stainless threaded rod or bolts. You'd think they'd use stainless in the first place. Anyway here's a link for the parts break down.
http://www.polarispartspitstop.com/pages/OemParts?...
Looks like its a 12 mm x 70 stud. could use a good penetrating oil like pb blaster let it sit and thread 2 nuts on and back it out and find see if you can find stainless threaded rod or bolts. You'd think they'd use stainless in the first place. Anyway here's a link for the parts break down.
http://www.polarispartspitstop.com/pages/OemParts?...
"Face your fear accept your war, it is what it is" Zakk Wylde /Black Label Society S.D.M.F.
2010 Cross Country/High compression pistons; Stage 2 cam; Power commander; RPW exhaust;Dynoed at 116 hp and 112 lb ft of torque at the rear wheel, Passenger back rest; HID headlight; Victory heated grips; Saddlebag liners; Saddlebag lid organizer; Soft lowers; Zumo 550 GPS; CEE Bailey + 2 tinted windshield, Custom Stainless 4" Brake and Shifter pegs and Az Victory Bag Bars,Kuryakyn Traditional-3-Pouch-Fairing-Bag, Stebel Nautilus Airhorn, Roadlok,HMD laydown license plate braket
Kuryakyn Gloss Black Scythe Mirrors
2010 Cross Country/High compression pistons; Stage 2 cam; Power commander; RPW exhaust;Dynoed at 116 hp and 112 lb ft of torque at the rear wheel, Passenger back rest; HID headlight; Victory heated grips; Saddlebag liners; Saddlebag lid organizer; Soft lowers; Zumo 550 GPS; CEE Bailey + 2 tinted windshield, Custom Stainless 4" Brake and Shifter pegs and Az Victory Bag Bars,Kuryakyn Traditional-3-Pouch-Fairing-Bag, Stebel Nautilus Airhorn, Roadlok,HMD laydown license plate braket
Kuryakyn Gloss Black Scythe Mirrors
Stainless isn't really the material of choice for a load bearing part like this, it's too brittle and will gall quite badly when in contact with dissimilar metals. Something in a grade 8 material possibly coated would be correct but I wouldn't go to any significant effort. Unless that part was submerged in salt water with a bad case of electrolysis this is only surface corrosion. Some steel wool or sand paper will clean that up good as new. There's no way there has been any significant reduction in its strength.
Just make sure to put a liberal coat of waterproof grease on the bolt before you reinstall it, even if you decide to replace it. That should prevent any further rust.
Just make sure to put a liberal coat of waterproof grease on the bolt before you reinstall it, even if you decide to replace it. That should prevent any further rust.
Last update on July 7 2012, 4:06 pm by mjw930.
Wasn't thinking of the load bearing part or galling. Grade 8 would be better. thank you. good advice.
"Face your fear accept your war, it is what it is" Zakk Wylde /Black Label Society S.D.M.F.
2010 Cross Country/High compression pistons; Stage 2 cam; Power commander; RPW exhaust;Dynoed at 116 hp and 112 lb ft of torque at the rear wheel, Passenger back rest; HID headlight; Victory heated grips; Saddlebag liners; Saddlebag lid organizer; Soft lowers; Zumo 550 GPS; CEE Bailey + 2 tinted windshield, Custom Stainless 4" Brake and Shifter pegs and Az Victory Bag Bars,Kuryakyn Traditional-3-Pouch-Fairing-Bag, Stebel Nautilus Airhorn, Roadlok,HMD laydown license plate braket
Kuryakyn Gloss Black Scythe Mirrors
2010 Cross Country/High compression pistons; Stage 2 cam; Power commander; RPW exhaust;Dynoed at 116 hp and 112 lb ft of torque at the rear wheel, Passenger back rest; HID headlight; Victory heated grips; Saddlebag liners; Saddlebag lid organizer; Soft lowers; Zumo 550 GPS; CEE Bailey + 2 tinted windshield, Custom Stainless 4" Brake and Shifter pegs and Az Victory Bag Bars,Kuryakyn Traditional-3-Pouch-Fairing-Bag, Stebel Nautilus Airhorn, Roadlok,HMD laydown license plate braket
Kuryakyn Gloss Black Scythe Mirrors
Thanks for the replies. I did try and clean it up a bit, it is way more than just surface rust, the picture doesn't really do it justice. There are very large pits in the stud, some as big as 1/4" long and all pretty deep. I sanded it with 80 grit and still didn't get it all off. Inside the isolator it looks like it was just superficial. I have no idea what could have caused this kind of rust, I've only had the bike since April and there isn't rust anywhere else (That I can see anyway).
BTW, has anyone tried replacing the Isolators? The manual says it takes 1250 lbs to press them in, so what does it take to get them out?
thanks
BTW, has anyone tried replacing the Isolators? The manual says it takes 1250 lbs to press them in, so what does it take to get them out?
thanks
I used to have an 05 Vegas and around 25K miles I noticed what seemed like a lot of play at the triple tree. I rode to my dealer and sat on a new Vegas in the showroom and felt it had a little play but not as much as mine. The tech told me it is a pressed in/out rubber bushing. After checking mine he felt I would be wasting money replacing them, that mine wasn't all that bad to him.
With all that rust you may be due for a new triple tree. Maybe do some Ebay/Craigslist searching for a clean used one somewhere. You never know when someone is parting out a bike, although finding a Victory may be rather hard. Good luck with your fix.
With all that rust you may be due for a new triple tree. Maybe do some Ebay/Craigslist searching for a clean used one somewhere. You never know when someone is parting out a bike, although finding a Victory may be rather hard. Good luck with your fix.
2005 Victory Vegas...traded for a
2011 Victory Crossroads
2008 H/D Road King
2011 Victory Crossroads
2008 H/D Road King
Rain washing and codisation can cause the rust.
Hardware store carry whats caled Liquied Wrench made for what you have there soak the stud where it goes into the bar. It might take a day just keep adding as you think. After it has had a chance to work have a budy hold the bars and then put a good jaw vice grip on the stuf get it as tight as you can. Now back the stud out. You might even go in and then out applying some liquied wrench. Its chaep so don;t worrie.
Now that you have it out go to hardware store and get two new bolts best grade uou can get. Anti seeze yhe threads and the length of the bolt. Rust will not come back.
I went to Honda east and found you do have bushing part number 5 I'm sure you can order them from Honda there good people. You can soak them with the Liqued Wrench and i would find like after market shop or your dealer and have them press them out. Good Luck
http://www.hondaeasttoledo.com/default.asp?page=pa...
Hardware store carry whats caled Liquied Wrench made for what you have there soak the stud where it goes into the bar. It might take a day just keep adding as you think. After it has had a chance to work have a budy hold the bars and then put a good jaw vice grip on the stuf get it as tight as you can. Now back the stud out. You might even go in and then out applying some liquied wrench. Its chaep so don;t worrie.
Now that you have it out go to hardware store and get two new bolts best grade uou can get. Anti seeze yhe threads and the length of the bolt. Rust will not come back.
I went to Honda east and found you do have bushing part number 5 I'm sure you can order them from Honda there good people. You can soak them with the Liqued Wrench and i would find like after market shop or your dealer and have them press them out. Good Luck
http://www.hondaeasttoledo.com/default.asp?page=pa...
Honda east parts list for your 2005 vegas
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/hondaeast/...
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/hondaeast/...
Thanks for the help, going to order the studs. I was reading some more on the isolator bushings, and it seems they changed the design in 09. The new design has very little freeplay in it. I think mine might be ok, only about 1/4" movement at the bars, maybe 1/2" at most. I also found some aftermarket hard bushings that can replace the soft ones.






